Beghrir (Moroccan Thousand-Hole Pancakes)

Beghrir are Moroccan semolina pancakes, cooked on one side only, whose entire surface opens into hundreds of small holes as they cook. They are served warm with a honey and butter sauce, and they are strongly associated with Ramadan, eaten at iftar to break the fast and at suhoor before dawn. The holes are the whole thing, and they are not decoration. Yeast in a thin, blended batter produces carbon dioxide; as the pancake sets on the hot pan, the bubbles rise and burst through the surface, leaving an open honeycomb that absorbs the sauce like a sponge. That is why beghrir is never turned over, flipping it would seal the holes shut and defeat the purpose. Some regions do flip them briefly to dry the top, and those are sometimes called khringos, though in Casablanca that word means something else entirely. Fine semolina is what makes it work, and it is also what gives beghrir its pale yellow colour. Recipes vary in how much they cut it with plain flour; the more semolina, the yellower and more characteristic the result. The batter is very similar to that used for Arab qatayef, the lacy pancakes folded around fillings. Beghrir can be used the same way, though it is not traditional.