South African Stewed Green Beans
South Africa
Rédacteur en chef
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Green beans cooked slowly with potato and onion until everything is completely soft, then roughly mashed and finished with butter and nutmeg. It is South African, and it is old-fashioned in the best sense. The dish exists for a specific reason and the source is refreshingly honest about it: this is what to do with green beans that have gone past their best. Beans that are too tough and stringy to steam and serve whole become excellent when cooked long and mashed, because the slow cooking breaks down exactly the fibres that made them unpleasant. It is a technique for rescuing produce rather than showcasing it, which is why it belongs to an older way of cooking. The potato is structural. It breaks down completely and binds the mash, which is why the dish holds together rather than being beans in water. Nutmeg with green beans is a Cape Dutch habit, and the same pairing turns up across South African vegetable cookery. It is not a garnish, it is what makes the dish taste South African rather than generically braised. The source is also honest that quantities do not matter much, which is true of most old traditional recipes and rarely admitted. Do not mash it to a purée. Texture is meant to survive.
Stewed green beans are a South African side dish of Cape Dutch character, in which green beans are slow-cooked with potato and onion and roughly mashed, finished with butter and nutmeg. The dish was traditionally a way of using beans grown too old and tough to steam whole.
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Wash and tail the beans. Quantities are not fixed here, use more if you are feeding more people, and a second potato with them.
Cut the beans crossways into rounds, anywhere from thinly sliced to 1 inch long.
Put them in a pot and slice the peeled potato and onion over the top.
Pour in about a third of a cup of water and add the sugar, white pepper and salt. White pepper is the better choice here, though black works.
Do not mix. Put the lid on, bring to the boil, then lower the heat and let it cook gently.
Cook, covered, until everything is very soft.
Mash the beans, potato and onion roughly with a masher. Do not beat it to a pulp, there should be texture left.
There is usually a little too much liquid. Drain it off through a sieve, or cook it away over high heat, taking care not to burn the vegetables.
Mix in a good knob of butter, fork it through, and sprinkle with nutmeg to serve.
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