
Egusi Pudding
Abuja, Nigeria ·
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Abuja, Nigeria ·
Ground melon seeds mixed with meat stock, fish and seasoning, then steamed in a water bath until set into a firm savoury pudding. It is Nigerian, and it is a different use of egusi from the soup that the seed is best known for. Egusi is the seed of a melon grown across West Africa for the seeds rather than the flesh. Shelled, the kernels are pale and mild, and they are around half oil and a third protein, which is what makes this dish work at all, ground egusi has enough fat and protein to set into a solid pudding when steamed, in the same way a custard sets. The construction is a direct relative of moi moi, the steamed bean pudding, and the technique is the same: a wet, seasoned mixture poured into moulds and cooked in a water bath, traditionally wrapped in plantain or banana leaves, now often in ramekins or foil. The leaves flavour the pudding as it steams, which foil does not. The bain-marie is not optional. Direct heat would set the outside and curdle the mixture before the middle cooked; surrounding it with water holds the temperature down and gives an even, moist set throughout. The source's nutritional discussion of egusi has not been carried across, though the oil and protein content is genuinely what makes the technique possible.
Egusi is the seed of a West African melon grown for its seeds rather than its flesh, used ground as a thickener and protein across Nigeria, Ghana and Sierra Leone. Egusi pudding is steamed in a water bath in the same manner as moi moi, the Nigerian bean pudding, traditionally wrapped in plantain leaves.
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Cook the beef with salt, pepper and chopped onion in a medium pot until tender. Put the smoked fish in towards the end if it is firm enough to take it. Keep the stock.
Combine the reserved stock with the meat, fish, ground crayfish and pepper, and work it into the ground egusi until completely smooth and evenly mixed. Taste and adjust the salt.
Spoon the egusi mixture into ramekins or leaf-lined moulds, filling each about three-quarters full.
Set the filled moulds into a large baking pan.
Bring water to a gentle simmer on the hob and pour it carefully into the baking pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the moulds.
Cover the whole pan with foil and bake at 350°F / 180°C for about an hour.
Take it out and let it stand for 10 minutes or more before removing the foil.
Lift the foil off carefully with an oven glove, the trapped steam is hot.
Let the puddings rest for a further 10 minutes before serving.
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