Shito (Black Pepper Sauce)

Shito is Ghana's black pepper sauce, and it is the condiment the country's food is built around. Dried fish, dried shrimp, onion, ginger and a very large quantity of ground pepper are cooked down in oil until the whole thing turns near black and the oil separates and rises. It is intensely savoury, genuinely hot, and used a spoonful at a time. What makes it structurally interesting is that it keeps. Fried properly, shito lasts weeks or months on a shelf without refrigeration, because the oil seals it and there is almost no water left in it. That is why Ghanaians abroad carry jars of it in luggage and why it is made in large batches rather than small ones. Its reach across the Ghanaian table is close to total. Waakye, kenkey and banku are barely considered complete without it. Beyond those it goes with jollof, fried rice, braised rice, gari, fried yam, fried plantain, grilled meat and, as the source for this recipe points out, bread. It is the thing that carries Ghanaian food, and the one rule about keeping it matters: only ever take shito out with a clean dry spoon, because a wet spoon introduces water and the jar will spoil.