Tsaramaso Malagasy (White Bean and Tomato Stew)
Madagascar
Rédacteur en chef
Abuja, Nigeria ·
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Abuja, Nigeria ·
Dried white beans cooked until tender, then finished with red onion and sliced tomatoes into a thick, soupy stew. It is Malagasy, and it is served everywhere on the island. It is laoka, which is the useful word here. In Malagasy eating, rice is the meal and laoka is whatever accompanies it, the thing that goes on top of, or beside, a large plate of rice. Tsaramaso is one of the most popular laoka in the country, and it is eaten as a matter of course rather than as an occasion dish. It is very often not vegetarian. Zebu meat, the humped cattle that are central to Malagasy life, makes it hen'omby sy tsaramaso, and pork makes it tsaramaso sy henakisoa. The shank is the cut the source recommends. This version is the plain one, which is also widely eaten. The technique in the recipe is worth noting: the beans are cooked separately in water, seasoned only at the end, and a cup of their cooking liquid is kept back. That liquid is what the finished stew is loosened with, and it carries starch and flavour that plain water would not. The source compares it to cassoulet, which is a reasonable shorthand, beans and meat cooked long and slow, though the seasoning is entirely different.
Tsaramaso is a Malagasy stew of white beans cooked with tomato and onion, eaten widely across Madagascar as laoka, the accompaniment to rice that forms the centre of a Malagasy meal. Versions with zebu meat or pork are common.
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Put the beans in a large pot and cover them with cold water by about an inch. Bring to the boil over high heat, then turn the heat as low as it will go and cover the pot partly so steam can escape.
Cook the beans, turning them occasionally, until tender, anywhere from 1 to 2 hours depending on whether they were soaked and how old they are. Keep them covered with water throughout, topping up with hot water as it evaporates.
Meanwhile, cut the tops off the tomatoes and discard them, squeeze out and discard the seeds, then slice the tomatoes thinly and set aside.
Once the beans are cooked, season them with salt. Reserve a cup of the cooking liquid, then drain them.
Warm the oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy pot over medium-high heat. Put in the onion and cook, turning occasionally, until it sizzles and begins to colour at the edges, 2 to 4 minutes.
Mix in the sliced tomatoes, cover and cook until they begin to break down, about 2 minutes.
Tip in the beans with the reserved cup of cooking liquid. Cover and bring to the boil.
Uncover and let it boil until the mixture has thickened noticeably but is still soupy, 5 to 10 minutes.
Season with salt one final time and serve hot with rice.
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