Vary Amin'anana (Malagasy Greens and Rice)

Vary amin'anana is rice cooked together with greens, tomatoes, onion and ginger until it becomes a thick, soupy porridge. It is Malagasy, and the name says exactly what it is: vary is rice, anana is greens. It is everyday food in the most literal sense. Rice is eaten at nearly every meal in Madagascar, and vary amin'anana is one of the most common ways of preparing it, cheap, filling, made from whatever leaves are available, and eaten at any hour including breakfast. Brèdes is the Malagasy term for the family of edible greens it uses, which covers everything from mustard greens to watercress to cassava leaves depending on the season. Ginger is the note that makes it Malagasy rather than generically green. It goes in early with the tomatoes and onions and runs through the whole dish. Two things about this particular version. It uses brown rice, which is unusual, white rice is standard in Madagascar, and it has been converted to a slow cooker, which is not a Malagasy method. The source explains why: it was adapted so it could be transported to a fundraiser. That provenance is worth recording, since it explains both oddities. The proportions are worth reading: twelve cups of water to five cups of rice gives something soupy rather than fluffy, which is correct.