Cape Malay Pickled Fish
South Africa
Rédacteur en chef
Abuja, Nigeria ·
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Abuja, Nigeria ·
Firm white fish, floured and fried, then layered under a sweet-sour curried onion sauce and left in the fridge for at least a day before it is eaten. It is Cape Malay, it is South African, and in Cape Town it is inseparable from Easter. The Cape Malay community descends from people brought to the Cape from Southeast Asia, largely from the Indonesian archipelago, as slaves and political exiles by the Dutch from the seventeenth century onwards. Their cooking is the origin of much of what is now considered characteristically Cape cuisine, and pickled fish belongs squarely to it, the turmeric, the coriander seed, the bay leaves and the sweet-sour balance are all markers of that lineage. The Easter association is real but the explanations for it vary, and the dish is not exclusively Christian: it is eaten in Muslim Cape Malay households too, which is one of the reasons the "made for Good Friday" account is contested. Its practical origin is simpler. Vinegar and sugar preserve cooked fish for weeks without refrigeration, which mattered a great deal in the early colonial Cape. It genuinely improves with time. A day in the fridge is the minimum; two or three is better, and it holds for several weeks. The source's nutritional claims have not been carried across.
Pickled fish is a Cape Malay dish from South Africa, made by frying fish and preserving it under a curried vinegar and onion sauce. Cape Malay cooking derives from communities brought to the Cape from Southeast Asia by the Dutch from the seventeenth century onwards. The dish is strongly associated with Easter in Cape Town and is eaten across religious communities there.
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Dust the fish pieces with the flour and season with salt and pepper.
Heat oil in a large frying pan and shallow-fry the fish for about 2 minutes on each side, until just cooked and lightly golden. Drain on kitchen paper.
In a large pot, warm the vinegar and water over medium heat.
Put in the sliced onions, sugar, salt, turmeric, roasted masala, peppercorns, coriander seeds, bay leaves and apricot jam, and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until the onions have softened but still have some bite.
Mix the corn flour paste through the sauce and cook briefly until it thickens slightly.
Layer the fish and the onion sauce in a large heatproof dish, making sure the sauce covers the fish completely.
Cool, cover, and refrigerate overnight at minimum. Two or three days is better.
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