Gollash (Sudanese Meat Pie)
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Aperçu
Gollash is a Sudanese pie of spiced minced beef between many layers of filo, with a milk and egg custard poured over the top before it bakes. It is a fixture of Sudanese restaurants and a dish people make for guests. The name is confusing and worth clearing up straight away: gollash has nothing whatever to do with Hungarian goulash, the paprika beef stew. The words are similar and the source itself slips between the two spellings, but they are unrelated dishes. Gollash is a layered pie. Two things make it what it is. The first is restraint in the filling. The meat is seasoned lightly, allspice, cinnamon, garlic, salt and pepper, deliberately, so the beef itself comes through rather than being buried, which is the opposite of how most spiced mince fillings are treated. The second is the custard poured over the assembled pie before baking, which soaks down between the top layers and sets, giving a soft, savoury layer under the crisp filo. Cutting the pie before it bakes rather than after is the technique that makes it servable. Filo that has been baked whole shatters when you try to cut it. The source's ingredient list is badly scrambled and has been rebuilt from its method.
Note de Patrimoine AFN
Gollash is a Sudanese layered pie of spiced minced beef between sheets of filo pastry, finished with a milk and egg custard before baking. It is commonly served in Sudanese restaurants. Despite the similar name, it is unrelated to Hungarian goulash.
Ingrédients
Préparation
- 1
Thaw the filo pastry ahead of time, overnight in the fridge or for a few hours on the counter. You need at least 20 sheets.
- 2
Set the oven to 350°F / 180°C.
- 3
Cook the diced onion in a little olive oil until softened, 5 to 7 minutes.
- 4
Put in the meat and brown it until the liquid has cooked off, about 10 minutes. Mix in all the spices and set aside. The seasoning is deliberately light so the beef comes through.
- 5
Melt the butter and combine it with the quarter cup of olive oil. Brush the base of a 10 x 6 inch pan with the mixture.
- 6
Roughly cut the filo to fit the pan. It does not need to be exact, and folded edges along the sides come out extra crisp.
- 7
Lay 2 to 3 sheets of filo in the pan and brush generously with the butter and oil. Repeat, brushing every third layer or so, until you have at least 10 layers on the bottom.
- 8
Spoon the meat mixture over the pastry and flatten it with the back of a spoon.
- 9Build the top the same way
2 to 3 layers at a time, brushing as you go, until you have roughly 10 layers on top.
- 10
Brush the top layer and cut the pie into portions with a sharp knife, going all the way to the bottom and going over each cut several times. Cutting before baking is what makes it servable afterwards.
- 11
Whisk the milk, egg, salt and pepper together and pour the mixture evenly over the top of the pie.
- 12
Bake for 45 minutes, until golden and crisp. A few minutes under the grill will crisp it further, but stay with it.
Notes de l’Africook
Notes personnelles de Nympha Nzeribe- Cut the pie before it bakes, not after. Baked filo shatters under a knife and you cannot get a clean portion out of it.
- Be generous with the butter and oil between layers. Any sheets that touch dry will fuse into one thick layer instead of separating.
- Keep the filo you are not using covered with a damp cloth. It dries out and cracks within minutes.
- Season the meat lightly. The restraint is deliberate, this is a dish where the beef is meant to taste of beef.
- Cook the liquid out of the mince completely. A wet filling makes the bottom layers soggy.
- The custard needs to go over the cuts so it can soak down between the layers. Pour it slowly and evenly.
Questions fréquentes
Is gollash the same as Hungarian goulash?
No, and the similarity of the names is entirely coincidental. Hungarian goulash is a paprika-heavy beef stew. Sudanese gollash is a layered pie of spiced minced beef between sheets of filo, finished with a milk and egg custard. The source itself slips between the two spellings, which is worth noting because it makes searching for the dish confusing. They share no ingredients, no technique and no history.
Why is the filling so lightly seasoned?
Deliberately, so the beef tastes of beef. Allspice, cinnamon, garlic powder, salt and pepper is a restrained list by the standards of spiced mince fillings, and the source is explicit that the goal is to preserve the natural flavour of the meat. The filo, the butter and the custard are all doing work around it, and a heavily spiced filling would compete with them rather than sit inside them.
What does the custard do?
It is poured over the assembled pie before baking and soaks down through the cuts into the top layers of filo, where it sets during the bake. The result is a soft, savoury, slightly eggy layer directly under the crisp top, a textural contrast you would not get from filo and meat alone. It also helps hold the top layers together, which matters given how many of them there are.
How many layers of filo do I need?
Roughly ten on the bottom and ten on top, which is why the recipe calls for twenty sheets. A few more on either side is fine. What matters more than the exact count is that you brush butter and oil every second or third sheet, layers that touch each other dry will bond into a single thick sheet rather than staying separate, which is the whole point of using filo.
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