Ful Medames
Egypt
Rédacteur en chef
London, United Kingdom ·
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London, United Kingdom ·
Ful medames is stewed fava beans dressed with olive oil, cumin, garlic and lemon, and it is Egypt's national dish. It is eaten at any hour, though breakfast is when it belongs most, and it is sold from carts across Cairo and Giza in the mornings. Traditionally it is cooked and served in a large metal jug, the qedra, over a very long slow heat, often overnight, which is why street ful has a depth that a quick home version does not. What the beans are dressed with varies endlessly: parsley, onion, chilli, tomato, hard eggs, tahini. Its versions across the region are worth knowing. In Somalia, fuul is a breakfast staple served with eggs and laxoox or canjeero flatbread, spiced with xawaash, the blend of cumin, coriander, cardamom, cloves, turmeric and more that makes it noticeably hotter than the Egyptian version. In Morocco it is bissara, made from fava beans and split green peas cooked with garlic, eaten especially in the north during cold weather. This particular recipe includes tahini, which is a Levantine addition rather than a classic Egyptian one, and it uses tinned beans rather than the overnight cook.
Ful medames is regarded as a national dish of Egypt and is particularly associated with Cairo and Giza. Related preparations include Somali fuul, spiced with xawaash, and Moroccan bissara made with fava beans and split green peas.
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Put the garlic cloves, cumin seeds and a pinch of salt in a mortar and pestle and crush until the seeds are cracked and the garlic is in small, flimsy chunks. If you have no mortar and pestle, mince the garlic very finely.
Empty the fava beans with their liquid into a medium saucepan and combine with the tahini and garlic paste.
Cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until the liquid retains some brothiness but turns thick and sauce-like, about 5 minutes.
Add the lemon juice and salt to taste.
Mash about a third of the beans with a potato masher to thicken, if you want.
Serve with toasted pita and a drizzle of olive oil.
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