Recettes

Ewa Agoyin

Ewa agoyin is beans cooked to complete softness, served with a dark sauce of caramelised onion, pepper and palm oil poured over the top. It is Lagos street food above all, eaten in the morning and through the afternoon, and it is almost always served with bread. The name records where it came from. Ewa is beans in Yoruba, and Agoyin refers to the Aganyin people of the Benin Republic, whose sellers and hawkers popularised the dish in Nigeria. It was originally ewa aganyin, and the shortened form took over because of how the word sounds when spoken quickly. Nigerians also use Agoyin more loosely for Beninese and Togolese people generally. Some sellers call it simply ewa g. The sauce is where the work is. Palm oil is heated until it clears, onions are caramelised in it until very dark, and parboiled tomato purée, ground pepper and crayfish go in after. That deep caramelisation is what makes the sauce black rather than red, and it cannot be hurried. The beans themselves are cooked until they collapse, which is the opposite of how beans are usually treated, and the combination of the soft plain beans with the intense sauce is the entire point.