Recettes

Kafteji

Kafteji is Tunisian street food built on a single idea: fry a range of vegetables separately so each one is properly cooked, then chop them together and serve the result with bread. Potato, courgette, pepper, tomato and aubergine are the usual cast, and the chopping at the end is what makes it kafteji rather than a plate of fried vegetables. It is sold from small counters and casse-croûte shops across Tunisia and eaten at any hour, most often stuffed into bread as a sandwich. It is inexpensive, which is part of its identity: kafteji is what you eat when you want something substantial and hot without a restaurant. Fried egg is a common addition, and in many Tunisian versions it is the only protein. The version here includes ground beef or lamb, which puts it at one end of a range. Kafteji is frequently made entirely without meat, and the vegetable only preparation is at least as common in Tunisia as the meat version. Harissa, olives and a squeeze of lemon are the usual finishing touches, and the dish is eaten from a shared plate with bread as the utensil.

Tunisia50 minLaila

Moroccan Chicken Rfissa

Rfissa is chicken and lentils stewed with onions in a broth heavy with fenugreek, ras el hanout and saffron, poured over a bed of shredded msemen or trid pastry. The pastry takes up the broth and becomes the base of the dish rather than an accompaniment to it, which is what distinguishes rfissa from a tagine served with bread. It is a family dish above all else. Rfissa is what appears at reunions and at religious occasions, at what Moroccans call a zarda, and it is not a restaurant dish. Its most specific role is at childbirth: it is served to women who have recently given birth, traditionally on the third day, because fenugreek, lentils and the spice blend are held to support recovery and milk production. A dish with a fixed place in a family's most significant week carries a weight that a good stew does not. The bed underneath it has its own vocabulary. Served over crumbled harcha it becomes rfissa medhoussa; over cubed bread it is treda. Moroccan households commonly buy the trid or msemen from a souk or a local bakery rather than making it, because the pastry is the slow part and the stew is not.

Morocco3 hrBlessing

Kawaree, an Egyptian dish of calf's feet slow cooked with chickpeas into a rich gelatinous broth

Kawaree (Cow Feet)

Kawaree is Egyptian calf's feet cooked with chickpeas until the meat falls from the bone and the broth turns thick with gelatin. It belongs to the older end of the Egyptian repertoire, and Egyptians are direct about the fact that it appeals more to their parents' generation than to their own. It is served in more than one way, and each has its own name. Kawaree fettah puts it over rice with tomato sauce, in the manner of the wider fattah tradition where bread or rice sits under a rich meat and broth. It is also eaten alongside stuffed vine leaves, and the intended technique there is specific: a piece of kawaree and one vine leaf in the same mouthful, so the gelatinous richness and the sharp stuffed leaf arrive together. The dish belongs to a family that runs across the region. Sudanese kawari uses sheep or cattle hooves with cinnamon, cardamom and cloves. Moroccan hergma is spiced with ginger, paprika and chilli and finished with rice. Turkish fasulyeli paça uses white beans in place of chickpeas and no turmeric at all. All are the same principle handled by different kitchens, and all exist because a foot yields a great deal from almost nothing.

EgyptBlessing

Tunisian Mloukhia

Tunisian mloukhia is not the dish of the same name eaten in Egypt, and the difference is fundamental. Egyptians cook the fresh leaves of jute mallow into a green soup. Tunisians dry the leaves, grind them to a powder, and cook that powder in oil for hours until it turns from green to deep brown and finally to something close to black. The two share a plant and almost nothing else. The name carries a claim. Mloukhia derives from the Arabic malik, meaning king, and in Tunisia the dish is called the delicacy of the king. It is cooked slowly over the low heat of a kanoun, a charcoal brazier, for at least eight hours in the traditional method, and it is not unusual for the paste to be started the evening before and finished the next day. Its occasions are precise and they cross religious lines. Tunisian Muslims eat it on Ras el am, the first day of the Hegira new year, so that the year begins under the sign of green, which is the colour of Islam and of hope. It appears at the end of mourning periods and on the first day of Eid al-Fitr. The Jews of Nabeul kept the same custom and now cook mloukhia for Rosh Hashanah. Tunisians say plainly that there is no middle position on it: you love it or you do not.

Tunisia6 hr 30 minBlessing

Akod

Akod is a tripe dish and it is the emblematic dish of Tunisian Jewish cooking. Beef tripe and a cow's trotter are cleaned, blanched through several changes of water, then cooked for hours with garlic, cumin, tomato paste and harissa until the sauce is thick and the tripe has surrendered completely. Its place is at the kemia, the Tunisian Jewish spread of small dishes that opens a meal, alongside banatages, briks, fricassés and minina. A host laying out a proper kemia would be expected to have made it. Tunisian Jewish cooking developed over centuries in Tunisia and has since largely relocated to France and Israel with the community, which makes recording dishes like this more urgent than recording better travelled ones. The wider family is large and worth knowing. Moroccan douara, also called t'qualia or kercha, uses mutton tripe. Algerian bakbouka includes carrots, courgette and chickpeas. Chkamba in Oran and chmenka in Tunisia are seasoned differently again, and the Moroccan Jewish version, tajine al guezar, meaning the butcher's pot, uses cumin and paprika without tomato paste and is cooked for close to ten hours over coals at Pesach. Offal has fallen out of favour with younger generations across the region, which the source for this recipe notes with some regret.

Tunisia6 hr 30 minBlessing

Roz bi laban, an Egyptian rice pudding served in a bowl with cinnamon and chopped almonds

Roz bi Laban (Rice Pudding)

Roz bi laban is rice with milk, which is exactly what the Arabic says, and it is among the most commonly eaten desserts in Egypt. It is sold from dessert shops and traditional restaurants in small individual bowls, set rather than loose, and served cold more often than warm. Its ubiquity comes from its simplicity. Rice, milk, sugar and a thickener are ingredients every household has, and the whole thing can be made in under half an hour if the rice is cooked separately rather than simmered in the milk from the start. That shortcut is common in Egyptian home kitchens and makes the dish close to foolproof, where the traditional method of cooking the rice slowly in milk demands constant stirring in the manner of a risotto. Rice pudding exists across most of the world and the Egyptian version is placed by its details. Cornstarch is used alongside the rice to give a firmer set than European rice puddings have, coconut flakes and raisins go on top, and cinnamon and chopped almonds are the other standard finishes. It sits in the same category as mahalabia and umm ali on the Egyptian dessert table, and is considered relatively light against those.

EgyptBlessing

Aslooz, a Libyan steamed couscous dish with asparagus, dill and a spiced tomato sauce

Aslooz (Libyan Couscous-Based Dish)

Aslooz is a Libyan couscous dish named after a plant, and the plant is the reason it belongs to a season rather than to a calendar. Aslooz is a wild weed that grows across the countryside and the mountain regions of western Libya, gathered rather than farmed, and harvested in a narrow window through January and February. It is picked from roadsides and hillsides in the Nafusa mountains and the western districts, and only the tender twigs and flowering branches are used. Because it grows wild and its season is short, aslooz has never been a commercial crop, and it is effectively unavailable outside Libya. Libyan families abroad substitute, most often asparagus with dill, sometimes carrot with cumin leaves, and this recipe is written that way. Everything about it is plain: steamed couscous, a tomato base, a wild green and a carrot sauce sharpened with lemon and chilli. Libyans describe it as cheap and cheerful and treat it as a family dish, made and eaten together rather than served to guests. The couscous is steamed over the greens so it takes their flavour from below, which is the technique that separates it from a couscous simply mixed with vegetables, and it is what a Libyan cook would notice first if it were skipped.

Libya1 hrBlessing

Kanafeh

Kanafeh, konafa in Egypt, knafeh across the Levant, is a pastry built from kadaif, the fine shredded dough sometimes called angel hair, layered with cheese or cream, baked in ghee until the strands turn deep gold, and soaked in sugar syrup while still hot. Its origins are Levantine rather than African. The most commonly cited account places its invention in Damascus in the seventh century, and an early version appears in Kitab al-Tabikh, a thirteenth-century Andalusian cookery manuscript. From there it spread across the Ottoman world. In Egypt it has become genuinely Egyptian. Konafa is inseparable from Ramadan, sold by weight from bakery windows through the whole month, made at home in large trays, and eaten after iftar alongside qatayef. Egyptian versions lean towards cream, nuts and dried fruit as often as cheese, which distinguishes them from the Palestinian knafeh nabulsieh built on stretchy akkawi cheese and stained orange. The texture is the point of the dish, and it depends on a single rule: the syrup and the pastry must be at opposite temperatures. Hot syrup on hot pastry makes it soggy. Cool syrup poured over pastry straight from the oven keeps the strands crisp while the inside stays molten. Rose or orange blossom water in the syrup is standard, and crushed pistachio or walnut goes on top.

EgyptDeborah

Tajin sibnekh, a Tunisian baked egg dish with chicken, potato, spinach and harissa

Tajin Sibnekh (Tunisian Chicken and Egg Bake)

A Tunisian tajine is not a Moroccan tagine, and this dish is the clearest illustration of the difference. Moroccan tagine means a stew cooked slowly in a clay pot under a conical lid. Tunisian tajin, or tajin sibnekh, means a baked egg dish, set firm and cut into squares, much closer to an Italian frittata or a Spanish tortilla. The confusion is entirely reasonable and entirely common. The same word travelled to two North African countries and attached itself to two different things. In Tunisia the dish is built from eggs beaten with whatever else is going: potatoes, chicken, spinach, peas, cheese, and the North African spices that mark it as Tunisian rather than European. Harissa and ras el hanout do that marking. Harissa is Tunisia's chilli paste and its most exported product; ras el hanout is the layered spice blend used across the Maghreb. Together they give an egg bake a warmth and heat that a frittata does not have. It is usually served as a starter, though it is substantial enough to be a meal, and it is as good cold the next day as it is hot, which makes it packed lunch and picnic food across the country.

Tunisia50 minFoodChef

Algerian Hariri

Hariri is a rich North African soup made in both Algeria and Morocco, and the Algerian version differs from its Moroccan neighbour in one clear respect: it contains no lentils. Lamb, chickpeas, tomato and a heavy hand of warm spices carry it instead. Ramadan is when it matters most. Hariri is iftar food, the substantial thing eaten to break a day's fast, and it is made in quantity across Algeria through the month. It is also eaten at other times as a starter or a light meal in its own right, and it is served with potatoes or rice as well as on its own. It is not a quick soup, and the source is direct about starting early: the total cooking time runs to around two hours and twenty minutes, most of it slow and unattended, which is what softens the lamb and lets the spices settle into the broth. The spicing is characteristic rather than fierce: turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, paprika and black pepper together, with coriander added near the end so its aroma survives, and lemon wedges served alongside for a sharpness that cuts the richness.

Algeria3 hrDeborah

Ojja, Tunisian eggs poached in a spiced tomato, pepper and merguez sauce

Ojja (Shakshuka)

Ojja is a Tunisian dish of eggs cooked in a spiced tomato and pepper sauce, and it is one of the country's most eaten meals. The name comes from Tunisian Arabic slang meaning mixture, which describes it accurately: tomato, pepper, onion, garlic and spice, with eggs finished in the sauce. Whether ojja and shakshuka are the same thing is genuinely disputed, and the disagreement is worth stating rather than resolving. Some Tunisians hold that ojja is made with garlic and no onion while shakshuka uses both. One published account draws the line differently, arguing that in ojja the eggs are stirred through the sauce while in shakshuka they are poached whole on the surface, which would make ojja a close relative of Turkish menemen. Others say the two words name one dish. The recipe here allows both egg treatments and notes that both are used in Tunisia. Its origin is generally placed in Tunisia or Yemen, and it is eaten across North Africa. It has also become a fixture of Israeli cooking over the past few decades, where it is eaten at any meal. Merguez, the North African lamb sausage, and harissa are what mark this version as Tunisian rather than anything else, and toasted whole coriander, caraway and cumin ground fresh give it a depth that pre-ground spice does not.

Tunisia45 minBlessing

Tajine Zitoun

Tajine zitoun is an Algerian chicken and olive dish, zitoun meaning olives in Arabic, and it is a fixture at iftar during Ramadan and at occasions generally. Chicken, green olives, onion and carrot are cooked together and the sauce is finished with lemon juice and, in most versions, a little flour to thicken it. It looks like a Moroccan tagine and is not one, though both countries cook in earthenware and the resemblance is real. What distinguishes Algerian cooking, and this dish in particular, is the spice handling: restrained rather than layered, letting the olives and lemon carry the flavour instead of burying them under a heavy blend. Saffron or turmeric provides the colour. The olives need attention. Two cups of green olives brings a lot of salt with it, and the recipe is explicit about washing them well before use. Some cooks blanch them briefly for the same reason. Cooking the chicken bones in the broth and removing them before serving is the other technique worth noting: the source describes deboning the breast first, using the bones to build the sauce, then returning the browned meat at the end, which gives depth without anyone having to negotiate bones at the table.

Algeria55 minBlessing

Balah El Sham

Balah el sham is fried choux pastry soaked in syrup, and it is one of the desserts Egyptians most associate with childhood. It is piped into short lengths through a star nozzle, fried until golden and ridged, then dropped into cool sugar syrup, which seeps into every groove. The name translates from Arabic as Levant dates, and it contains no dates at all. It is called that for its size and shape, and Sham for the Levant region where it originated. It is eaten across much of the Middle East and in parts of Eastern Europe under other names, and the closest familiar comparison is churros, with one important difference: churros are rolled in cinnamon sugar, while balah el sham is submerged in syrup. Choux is the technique, and it is the same pastry used for éclairs and profiteroles. Flour is cooked into hot liquid until it forms a ball and turns glossy, then eggs are beaten in off the heat, one at a time. What is unusual here is that it is fried rather than baked, which gives a crisp ridged shell around a hollow, airy centre. It is often split and filled with cream, custard, mascarpone, chocolate or nuts, and pistachios on top are standard. It can be eaten hot or cold.

Egypt50 minFoodChef

Berkoukes

Berkoukes is both a pasta and the dish made from it. The pasta is hand-rolled semolina in small balls, larger than couscous and smaller than a pea, and the dish is the Algerian Berber stew built around it with meat, seasonal vegetables and pulses. It has several names depending on region: aïche, m'hamessa, abazine. The distinction between berkoukes and m'hamsa is size, with berkoukes the larger balls and m'hamsa the smaller. The grains are rolled by hand in a wide dish, traditionally wood or earthenware and now usually metal, which is slow work and why most households buy it ready made. It is winter food and it carries a season. Berkoukes is eaten in Algeria and northeastern Morocco through the cold months and particularly in January, when it marks the harvest of beans, dried fruit and meats, and it reads as a dish of abundance and generosity. The Kabylia version includes quedid, the dried meat also called achadhelouh, along with khlili, the dried mutton fat, and cultured smen. It is served with kesra or another rustic country bread. The source struggles for a word for its consistency and settles on scoup, which is fair: it is too thick for soup and too brothy for stew.

Algeria1 hr 20 minBlessing

Haraimi, Libyan fish steaks cooked in a spicy tomato and caraway sauce

Haraimi (Libyan Spicy Fish Stew)

Haraimi is fish cooked in a fiercely spiced tomato sauce, and it is among the dishes most identified with Libya. It is quick, it is hot, and it is eaten with bread to mop the sauce, which is generally reckoned to be the best part. Its origins lie with the Libyan Jewish community. Libya had a Jewish population of several thousand within living memory, and haraimi was their dish before it became a staple in every Libyan household. Very few Jews remain in Libya today, and the dish has outlasted the community that created it, which is worth recording rather than passing over. Italian colonial rule is the other influence the source points to. Caraway is the spice that makes it. Added near the end so its aroma survives, it gives haraimi a warm, slightly aniseed note that distinguishes it from the many other Mediterranean fish-in-tomato dishes. Lemon juice goes in at the very end for the same reason. Tuna is used here, and any chunky firm fish works, since the flesh has to hold together in the sauce. It is served warm or at room temperature as an appetizer, or as a main with couscous or rice.

Libya35 minBlessing

Mrouzia

Mrouzia is a Moroccan tagine of lamb cooked slowly with honey, cinnamon, ras el hanout, raisins and almonds until it is deeply sweet, dark and falling off the bone. It is made in the days after Eid al-Adha. That timing is not incidental, it is the whole origin of the dish. At Eid al-Adha, the Festival of Sacrifice, a large quantity of meat becomes available at once, more than a household can eat quickly. Before refrigeration, mrouzia was how it was kept. The heavy seasoning, the quantity of honey and the long cooking all work as preservation, and the dish was made specifically to hold meat that would otherwise spoil. That practical origin is still visible in how it is cooked. It uses fatty cuts, it is cooked for a long time, and it improves after a day or two rather than being served immediately, which is why it is often made ahead. The flavour is at the sweet end of Moroccan cooking, further than most. Ras el hanout carries it, saffron gives its particular perfume, and the balance between honey and spice is what a cook adjusts. Tunisia makes a version, prepared differently. In Morocco it remains firmly attached to Eid, and many households cook it only then.

Morocco2 hr 45 minNympha

Chtitha Batata

Chtitha batata is the Algerian potato stew, and it is built on dersa. Dersa is a paste of garlic and chilli ground in a mortar with cumin, paprika, black pepper and cayenne, and it is the starting point for a whole family of Algerian dishes, chtitha among them. The technique is straightforward and the order matters. The dersa is fried first until fragrant, which is what opens up the spices, and the potatoes go in and are turned through it so every surface is coated before any liquid arrives. Tomato paste follows, then just enough water to cover, and it cooks until the potatoes are soft and the sauce has thickened around them. It is vegan as written and eaten as a main course on its own terms, not as a compromise, which is unusual for a stew of this kind. Meat can go into the sauce and often does, and chickpeas are a common addition that the source's prose mentions though the recipe itself does not include them. It keeps four days refrigerated and reheats well, and the flavour improves overnight as the dersa works into the potatoes.

Algeria55 minBlessing

Maqluba, a Middle Eastern pot of layered lamb, rice and fried vegetables turned upside down

Maqluba (Upside Down Lamb and Rice)

Maqluba is a Middle Eastern dish of meat, rice and fried vegetables layered in a pot and turned out upside down to serve. The source names it as Syrian, Iraqi, Palestinian and Jordanian, and it belongs to those traditions rather than to any African one. Its name is its method. Maqluba means upside down in Arabic, and the whole point is the moment the pot is inverted onto a platter and lifted away, leaving the layers standing. It is spelled maklouba and maqlooba as well, and it is many centuries old, often placed in the thirteenth century. The layering follows conventions. Aubergine is paired with lamb, cauliflower with chicken, and other vegetables go in according to what the cook has. Toasted pine nuts or slivered almonds with chopped parsley are the traditional garnish, and yoghurt or a simple salad goes alongside. It is a feast dish, made in quantity. Note that the method in this source refers to layering the beef, while the ingredients specify lamb; the lamb is correct. It sits in Worldwide Recipes with its URL unchanged.

Libya2 hrFoodChef

Moroccan Chicken Tagine

Chicken tagine is Moroccan slow cooking at its most recognisable: chicken with preserved lemon, olives, onion and a warm spice blend, cooked gently until the meat falls apart. The name belongs to the vessel as much as the dish. A tagine is a shallow ceramic or unglazed clay pot with a tall conical lid. The cone is not decorative: steam rises, condenses against the cone and runs back down into the base, so the dish cooks in its own recirculating moisture with very little added liquid. It works like a slow cooker and gives the same result, meat that is tender and a sauce that has concentrated rather than evaporated. The spice profile is the Moroccan signature: paprika, cumin, ginger, coriander, cinnamon and cayenne together, with honey for balance and lemon for sharpness. Cracked green olives and preserved lemon go in at the end so they keep their character. It can be made in a tagine, in a Dutch oven, or on the stovetop, and this recipe uses the last. If you cook in an actual tagine on a hob, use the lowest setting you can: raising the heat cracks the clay.

Morocco1 hr 10 minAmara

Bamia

Bamia is a stew of lamb, okra and tomato, and the name is simply the Arabic word for okra, which tells you where the emphasis lies. It is eaten across an enormous area: all the Arab countries, Anatolia and Turkey, Greece, Afghanistan and Iran, with regional variations at every point. In Egypt it is a household staple and particularly associated with Ramadan, where it appears regularly on iftar tables. The construction is straightforward. Lamb is browned and stewed with onion, garlic and tomato, seasoned with coriander and cardamom, and okra is added to cook in the sauce. It is often finished in the oven in a clay dish, which is worth doing if you have one, the even, enclosed heat suits it. The okra question dominates how people feel about the dish. Okra releases a mucilaginous liquid when cut and cooked in liquid, which thickens the stew. Some cuisines prize this; others go to considerable lengths to avoid it. Using whole small okra rather than sliced, and not overworking it, keeps it to a minimum. Small young pods are much better than large ones, which turn woody.

Egypt50 minFoodChef

Basbousa, an Egyptian semolina cake cut into diamonds with almonds and syrup

Basbousa (Semolina Cake)

Basbousa is a semolina cake soaked in sugar syrup, and it is one of Egypt's best known desserts. It is scored into diamonds before baking, an almond pressed into each one, and the cooled syrup poured over while the cake is still hot. Its names change across the region. It is revani in Turkey and the Balkans, hareesa in the Levant, namoura in Lebanon, and basbousa across Egypt and much of the Arab world. The Arabic word basbousa translates roughly as just a kiss, which is an unusually charming piece of naming for a cake. Coarse semolina is the ingredient that defines it and desiccated coconut is the second. Semolina gives the slightly grainy, dense crumb that no flour cake reproduces, and it needs time to hydrate: the batter rests half an hour in the tin before baking, which is a step easy to skip and hard to recover from. The syrup rule is the one that decides the result: cooled syrup onto hot cake, then a final five minutes back in the oven so it is fully absorbed. The scoring must go all the way through after baking, or the syrup sits on top rather than sinking in.

Egypt1 hr 30 minNympha

Dolma (Stuffed Grape Leaves)

Dolma, known in Egypt as Warak Enab (grape vine paper), are tender grape leaves stuffed with a fragrant mixture of spiced rice, fresh herbs, and sometimes minced meat, then tightly rolled and arranged in a pot to cook slowly in a bright, lemony broth until the filling is perfectly cooked and the leaves are silky and tender. The preparation of Dolma is a communal activity in Egyptian and Levantine households, with family members gathering around a table to roll hundreds of leaves for celebrations. The tightly rolled parcels, no larger than a finger, are arranged in concentric circles in the pot and weight down with a plate to prevent them unravelling during cooking. The result is a dish of impressive elegance built from simple ingredients.

North AfricaBlessing

Moroccan Zaalouk (Cooked Eggplant and Tomato Salad)

Zaalouk is a classic Moroccan cooked salad of eggplant (aubergine) and tomatoes, gently seasoned with cumin, paprika, garlic, fresh coriander, and a touch of preserved lemon, then cooked down to a soft, almost spreadable consistency. It is served at room temperature as part of the Moroccan mezze spread that precedes most main meals. Despite being called a salad, Zaalouk is fully cooked. The eggplant is first roasted or grilled to develop smokiness, then combined with tomatoes and spices and cooked together until completely collapsed into a silky, intensely flavoured paste. It is served generously with warm bread for scooping and represents the sophisticated simplicity that defines Moroccan cooking at its best.

MoroccoBlessing

Egyptian Koshari

Koshari is Egypt's national dish and its most famous street food, rice, lentils and macaroni layered together, topped with a spiced tomato sauce, crisp fried onions and a sharp garlic-vinegar dressing. It is a dish of components, and none of them is complicated. What makes koshari work is that all of them are made separately and assembled at the end, so each keeps its own texture: the rice and lentils soft, the pasta firm, the onions properly crisp, the sauce sharp with vinegar and cumin. It is cheap, filling and entirely plant-based as standard, which is why it feeds an enormous number of people every day. Koshari shops exist across Egypt doing nothing else, and it is eaten as often at home. Its ubiquity is genuine, the comparison to macaroni cheese in the source is about how ordinary it is rather than what it tastes like. The daqqa, the garlic and vinegar dressing, is what stops the whole thing being stodgy, and it is the element most often underdone by people making it for the first time. Be generous with it. Chickpeas are usually added on top.

Egypt41 minBlessing

Egyptian Katayef stuffed mini pancakes filled with cheese and drizzled with syrup on a plate, a beloved Ramadan dessert

Katayef (Mini Pancakes)

Katayef, qatayef, atayef, are small yeasted pancakes cooked on one side only, then folded around a filling, sealed, fried or baked, and soaked in syrup. They are Ramadan food across Egypt and the Levant. The one-sided cooking is the whole technique and it is what makes katayef katayef. The batter is poured onto a hot dry pan and left until the top surface is covered in open bubbles and has set dry to the touch, without ever being flipped. That bubbled, sticky upper surface is what allows the folded pancake to seal shut around its filling without needing anything to hold it. Fillings split two ways: sweet cheese, or crushed nuts with cinnamon. Both are traditional and households tend to make each. Once folded they are either deep-fried to a deep gold or baked, then drizzled with warm sugar syrup scented with orange blossom or rose water. Through Ramadan they are sold in enormous quantities from bakeries, often as bare unfilled pancakes for people to fill at home. Alongside konafa, katayef is one of the two desserts that define the month in Egypt.

EgyptBlessing

Macarona Bechamel

Macarona béchamel is Egypt's pasta bake, penne layered with a spiced minced meat sauce, covered in béchamel and baked until the top browns. The dish arrived through the same routes that carried béchamel across the Mediterranean, and Egypt made it its own. It is a close relative of Greek pastitsio and of the wider family of baked pasta dishes that runs around the Mediterranean rim, but the spicing is Egyptian: the meat sauce is seasoned with cinnamon, allspice and nutmeg rather than with oregano or basil. It is comfort food in the fullest sense, and it is what appears at family gatherings, on Fridays, and at any occasion where a large dish that feeds many people is required. Most Egyptians have a strong opinion about how their mother makes it. The béchamel is the part worth getting right. It should be thick enough to sit on top rather than sink into the pasta, and it is usually enriched with egg, which helps it set into a firm golden layer rather than staying loose. It reheats well and is often better the day after, which is part of why it is made in quantity.

EgyptBlessing

Mahshi

Mahshi means stuffed, and the dish is exactly that: vegetables hollowed out, filled with a mixture of rice and minced meat, and cooked in a tomato and cumin sauce. It is the archetypal dish for feeding people. Making mahshi is slow, repetitive work, hollowing, filling, packing the pot, which is why it belongs to occasions and to households cooking for numbers rather than to a weeknight. The vegetable used varies by country and by season, and this variation is much of the pleasure of the dish. Courgette, particularly the pale Lebanese kusa, is among the most common. Aubergine, bell peppers, tomatoes and potatoes are all used, and vine leaves and cabbage leaves are rolled rather than stuffed but belong to the same family. Egyptian versions frequently combine several in one pot. The filling is rice and minced beef or lamb with herbs, and it is packed loosely, the rice swells substantially as it cooks and a tightly packed vegetable will split. A vegetarian version made with rice, herbs and no meat is entirely standard rather than an adaptation, and is often served cold.

EgyptBlessing

Seffa medfouna, saffron chicken buried under sweetened vermicelli with almonds

Seffa Medfouna (Moroccan Buried Chicken with Sweet Vermicelli)

Seffa medfouna is saffron chicken hidden inside a mound of steamed, sweetened vermicelli, dusted with cinnamon, icing sugar and ground fried almonds. Medfouna means buried, and the concealment is the whole presentation. **It is finished with a cup of ground almonds, which the title gives no indication of.** It is the clearest example on this site of the Moroccan savoury-sweet axis. Saffron chicken cooked with ginger, turmeric and pepper is buried under vermicelli that has been sweetened with butter and icing sugar, studded with raisins, and decorated with cinnamon and almonds. Neither element is subtle, and the point is that they arrive in the same mouthful. This is the same tradition as pastilla, and it reflects the Andalusian and Arab influence that runs through Moroccan festive cooking. Seffa on its own is the sweetened steamed vermicelli or couscous, served as a dish in its own right. Medfouna is the version with meat concealed inside. The vermicelli is steamed four times. That is not an exaggeration in the method, repeated steaming with resting in between is what makes it light rather than claggy, and it is the same principle as double-steamed couscous. It is a dish for a table with several courses on it, not a weeknight.

Morocco3 hr 15 minBlessing

Recettes

Recettes à la une

Berkoukes

Dolma (Stuffed Grape Leaves)

Basbousa (Semolina Cake)

Bamia

Moroccan Chicken Tagine

Algerian Hariri

Tajin Sibnekh (Tunisian Chicken and Egg Bake)

Plats emblématiques

Recettes les plus populaires

Kafteji

Moroccan Chicken Rfissa

Kawaree (Cow Feet)

Tunisian Mloukhia

Akod

Roz bi Laban (Rice Pudding)

Aslooz (Libyan Couscous-Based Dish)

Kanafeh

Tajin Sibnekh (Tunisian Chicken and Egg Bake)

Algerian Hariri

Ojja (Shakshuka)

Tajine Zitoun

Balah El Sham

Berkoukes

Haraimi (Libyan Spicy Fish Stew)

Mrouzia

Chtitha Batata

Maqluba (Upside Down Lamb and Rice)

Moroccan Chicken Tagine

Bamia

Basbousa (Semolina Cake)

Dolma (Stuffed Grape Leaves)

Moroccan Zaalouk (Cooked Eggplant and Tomato Salad)

Egyptian Koshari

Katayef (Mini Pancakes)

Macarona Bechamel

Mahshi

Seffa Medfouna (Moroccan Buried Chicken with Sweet Vermicelli)