Recettes

Matapa, a Mozambican dish of cassava leaves cooked with groundnuts, coconut milk and shrimp, served with rice

Mozambique Matapa Recipe

Matapa is Mozambique's cassava leaf dish, and it is where the country's two food geographies meet. Cassava leaves and groundnuts belong to the interior; coconut milk and dried shrimp belong to the Indian Ocean coast. Matapa puts all four in one pot, and the result tastes like nowhere else on the continent. It is most common in the south of the country, where the ingredients are close at hand and inexpensive, and it is everyday food rather than occasion food. Mozambican households eat it with rice or bread. The dish is also known as matata in some accounts, and the naming shifts across regions in the way that dishes carried by many communities usually do. The cassava leaves are what make it. They are finely chopped and cooked long enough to lose their fibre and their raw edge, and the groundnuts thicken the coconut milk around them into something dense and savoury. Cooks substitute spinach, kale, collard greens or pumpkin leaves where cassava leaves are hard to come by, and every Mozambican will tell you the substitution is not the same dish.

Mozambique1 hrDebby

Edo Black Soup

Edo black soup takes its name from its colour, and the colour comes entirely from its leaves. Bitter leaf, scent leaf and uziza are ground together until they release a dark green so deep it reads as black in the bowl, and that grinding is the whole architecture of the dish: the leaves are the thickener, the flavour and the appearance at once. It belongs to Edo State in southern Nigeria and is particularly associated with the Esan people. Within Nigeria's enormous catalogue of soups, black soup is distinguished by how little palm oil it uses. Most southern Nigerian soups are built on a generous quantity of it; this one uses enough to round the leaves and no more, which leaves the bitterness and the aromatic sharpness of the greens in the foreground rather than behind a screen of oil. The three leaves are argued about. Some Edo cooks hold that two are sufficient, others that all three are necessary for balance, and the ratio between them is a matter of household preference. Black soup is eaten with fufu or pounded yam, and the pairing of a dense swallow against a soup this concentrated is the point of both.

Nigeria40 minTaiwo Oladapo

Kontomire Stew

Kontomire is the Twi word for cocoyam leaves, and kontomire stew is the dish that has made them Ghana's most eaten green. The leaves are broad and thick, closer to collard greens in body than to spinach, and they hold their structure through a long cook rather than collapsing. The stew belongs to Akan cooking and forms one half of ampesi, the pairing of a stew with yam, plantain or cocoyam that is among the most common meals in southern Ghana. It exists in more than one form. Abom, the Asante version, is steamed cocoyam leaves ground with onion, pepper and tomato and finished with palm oil. The version here is tomato based and thickened with ground melon seeds, which Ghanaians call egusi or agushie, and which give it a body and a nuttiness that abom does not have. Kontomire stew sits inside the wider West African family of leaf stews known collectively as palava sauce, cooked in Ghana, Liberia, Sierra Leone and Nigeria with the greens each country has. Ghana's is distinguished by the cocoyam leaf and by the melon seed.

Ghana50 minJennifer

Banana Soup

Bananas and their cooking relatives are among the most important foods in Africa's Great Lakes region and across its humid tropical belt. In Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi, eastern DR Congo and parts of Tanzania and Kenya, the plant is a staple rather than a fruit: green cooking bananas are steamed, mashed, worked into stews and eaten daily, and the sweet ripe banana is only one use among many. That distinction between cooking banana and ripe fruit matters for placing this recipe. It uses ripe bananas, blended smooth with coconut milk and finished with curry powder and turmeric, which puts it closer to the spiced coconut cooking of the Swahili coast than to the green banana dishes of the interior. The pairing of coconut milk with warm spice is genuinely East African coastal; the blended sweet banana base is not a documented preparation from any specific tradition. This is best understood as a contemporary dish rather than an inherited one. It uses African ingredients and an East African coastal flavour logic, but no country, community or lineage can honestly be attached to it on the evidence available. What it does well is show what ripe banana does under savoury treatment, which is a legitimate thing for a recipe to do without claiming a heritage it does not have.

50 minLaila

Egusi Soup

Egusi soup is eaten across every region of Nigeria, every ethnic group and every economic class, which is a claim very few dishes anywhere can support. Its name changes with the language and the dish does not: miyan gushi in Hausa, ofe egusi in Igbo, efo elegusi in Yoruba. Its defining ingredient is ground egusi, the dried seed of a gourd related to the watermelon, milled to a meal that thickens and enriches the soup around it. The seeds are ground dry, without water, until the powder turns to a paste under the blade. Nothing else produces the particular nutty, faintly bitter depth that egusi gives, which is why the soup is named for the seed rather than for the meat or the greens that also go into it. There is no single method. The caking approach lets the ground seed set into soft curds in the stock; the frying approach starts the egusi in palm oil; the moulding approach forms it into balls that are eaten like meat. Ijebu cooks in Ogun State make it with no vegetables at all. Every one of these is egusi soup, and Nigerians will argue for their own without seriously disputing anyone else's. It is eaten with pounded yam, fufu, eba, amala or any swallow at hand.

Nigeria50 minFoodChef

Buka stew, a Nigerian pepper stew with assorted meats cooked in bleached palm oil

Buka Stew With Assorted Meats (Obe Ata)

Buka stew is the pepper stew of western Nigeria, named for the places that made it famous. A buka is a small, cheap local eating house, and the buka is where working Lagos eats: fresh food, several dishes, no cooking at home, and no pretensions about any of it. The stew belongs to those kitchens and carries their signature. It is a pepper stew rather than a tomato stew, and the distinction is the whole recipe: tatashe and rodo dominate and tomato is kept back, which is the reverse of the everyday Nigerian stew ratio. The palm oil is bleached first, heated until it changes character, and that step produces the specific aroma that makes a buka identifiable from the street. Seasoning is kept minimal on purpose, because the peppers and the oil are doing the work. It is made with assorted meats, the cow parts that a household kitchen might skip and a buka never does, deep fried before they go into the pot. The women who run these kitchens are known collectively in Nigerian speech as Iya Basira, a name that stands in for all of them, and mama put is what the roadside version is called. Buka stew is eaten with white rice, beans, yam, fried plantain or agege bread.

Nigeria50 minJennifer

Miyan kuka, a Northern Nigerian baobab leaf soup, dark green and thick, served with tuwon shinkafa

Miyan Kuka (Baobab Leaves Soup)

Miyan kuka is Hausa soup made from powdered baobab leaves, and it is the one Northern Nigerian dish that people warn you about before they serve it. It is dark green, mucilaginous and thick, and it does not look like anything anyone finds appetising on first sight. Northerners are entirely aware of this and serve it anyway, because the taste is not in dispute even where the appearance is. Kuka is the dried and ground leaf of the baobab, sold as a dark green powder in markets across the north and instantly recognisable to anyone who has shopped there. The powder is whisked into a seasoned stock at the very end of cooking, which is where the soup gets both its body and its drawing texture. It is also called luru. Nigeria's soups map closely onto its peoples, and miyan kuka is the north's entry in that map: Yoruba households have ewedu, Igbo have ofe ugba, Edo have bitter leaf soup, the riverine south has fisherman soup. Miyan kuka is eaten with tuwon shinkafa, tuwon dawa or any swallow, and it is one of the dishes that is genuinely better on the second day, which is a claim its cooks make readily and which holds up.

Nigeria30 minBeatrice

Cassava Leaf Soup

Cassava leaf soup is eaten from Liberia and Sierra Leone through to Central Africa, where it is known as saka saka or pondu, and it is one of the most widely shared dishes on the continent. Wherever cassava is grown for its root, the leaves are eaten too, and a great many countries have arrived independently at some version of this. Calling it a soup understates it. It is closer to a thick stew: pounded cassava leaves cooked down with palm oil, smoked meat or fish and ground crayfish until the whole thing is dense and dark green. The leaves themselves carry little flavour of their own and take on whatever they are cooked with, which is why the smoked protein and the palm oil matter so much to the result. The West African version this recipe follows differs from the Central African one in its details. Liberian and Sierra Leonean cooks commonly use groundnut paste alongside the palm oil, and smoked turkey or fish rather than the salted fish more common further east. What holds across all of them is the pounding, the long cook and the requirement that the leaves be thoroughly cooked, since cassava leaves are not safe raw. It is eaten over rice.

Liberia40 minCuisine228

Gbegiri, a smooth Yoruba bean soup, served alongside ewedu and amala as abula

Gbegiri Soup (Beans Soup)

Gbegiri is Yoruba bean soup, smooth to the point of being velvety, pale orange from a small quantity of palm oil, and mild in a food culture that generally is not. It comes from southwestern Nigeria and it is rarely eaten alone. Its natural home is abula, the combination that puts gbegiri and ewedu together on a plate with amala and a pepper stew. The three components do different things: gbegiri brings body and mildness, ewedu brings the drawing green texture, and the stew brings heat. Ordering abula in an Ibadan or Lagos buka gets you all of it, and many people go to a buka specifically for the gbegiri. Making it well is a matter of texture rather than seasoning. Brown beans or black eyed beans are soaked so the skins can be slipped off, cooked until they collapse, and then either blended or worked through a sieve with an ijabe, the small cooking broom. Oyo State cooks will tell you the sieve is the authentic method and the blender is the concession, and both routes are used. The palm oil goes in for colour rather than flavour, and the quantity is deliberately small.

Nigeria35 minBlessing

Shiro wat, an Ethiopian stew of ground chickpeas with berbere, served on injera

Shiro Wat (Ethiopian Chickpea Stew)

Shiro wat is ground chickpea stew, and it is among the most eaten dishes in Ethiopia and Eritrea. Onion, garlic, tomato and berbere are cooked down in oil, chickpea flour is whisked in, and the result thickens to something between a thick gravy and a puree, smooth enough to spread and eaten with injera. Its position has a great deal to do with the religious calendar. Ethiopian Orthodox practice includes a very large number of fasting days, on which no meat, eggs or dairy are eaten, and shiro contains none of them. It is standard on Wednesdays and Fridays, through the eight weeks of Tsom, the Great Lent, and it is eaten during Ramadan by Ethiopian and Eritrean Muslims too. That is a dish serving two religions in one country without modification. It is also cheap and quick, which explains the rest of its reach. Shiro powder, sold ready mixed with the spices already in it, is available across Ethiopia and increasingly abroad, in two kinds: mitten shiro, which is red and carries berbere, and netch shiro, which is white and mild. The dish takes different forms by consistency and name: shiro fessess is runny and served over injera with chillies, shiro tegamino is thick and cooked in an earthenware pot until it bubbles and caramelises at the base, and shiro fit fit shreds injera through it for breakfast.

Ethiopia35 minBlessing

Otong Soup

Otong soup is the Efik okra soup of Cross River State in south eastern Nigeria, and what separates it from every other okra soup in the country is the pairing of two vegetables rather than one. Okra provides the draw; ikong ubong, the pumpkin leaf known elsewhere as ugwu, provides the body and the green. Uziza leaf goes in for aroma. Okra soup is made across Nigeria and the names shift with the language: ila asepo among the Yoruba, okwuru among the Igbo, miyan kubewa in Hausa, and otong among the Efik. Each has its own emphasis, and the two vegetable combination is what marks this one as Efik rather than anything else. The technique is short and the timing is unforgiving. Okra goes in near the end, the pot is never covered after that point, and the soup comes off the heat while the okra is still green and resilient, because the retained heat keeps cooking it for another couple of minutes. Covered or overcooked, okra goes brown and loses its texture entirely. The Efik version is generous with seafood, taking in prawns, crab, mussels and smoked catfish alongside the assorted meat, which reflects a state built around water. It is eaten with ayan ekpang, the grated steamed cocoyam, or with any swallow.

Nigeria55 minJennifer

Cassava leaf soup, a West African stew of cassava leaves with groundnut and palm oil, served over rice

Cassava Leaf Soup with Peanut Butter

Cassava leaf soup is eaten across West and Central Africa, and its names map the geography: saka saka and pondu in the Congo basin, and simply cassava leaf in Liberia, Sierra Leone and Guinea. Wherever cassava is grown for its root, the leaves are eaten too, and a great many countries have arrived at some version of this independently. The West African version this recipe follows is built on groundnut. Peanut butter goes in with the leaves and palm oil, which gives a thicker, richer, nuttier result than the Central African versions that lean on palm oil alone. Smoked turkey, fish or chicken supplies the savoury depth, and scotch bonnet supplies the heat. The leaves themselves carry very little flavour, which is precisely why the dish works: they absorb whatever they are cooked with, so the palm oil, the groundnut and the smoked protein are doing all the talking. That also means the quality of those three decides the pot. It is served over rice, and the one non negotiable is cooking: cassava leaves must be thoroughly cooked, since they are not safe raw. Frozen leaves sold commercially have generally been blanched already, which is why this version cooks relatively briefly.

Liberia1 hrDebby

Catfish and Carrot Sauce

Catfish is everywhere in Nigeria now, and the reason is farming rather than fishing. Catfish aquaculture expanded enormously across the country from the 1990s onward, at both household and commercial scale, and a fish that was once a river catch became one of the most available proteins in the market. Dishes built around it have multiplied accordingly. This one is a contemporary Nigerian preparation rather than an inherited dish. Carrot and tomato are blended into a sauce in a three to one ratio, so the carrot rather than the tomato carries it, giving a sweeter and thicker base than a standard Nigerian stew. The fish is marinated, grilled or baked separately, and set into the sauce at the end rather than cooked in it. Cleaning is the part that determines whether it works. Catfish is naturally slimy and has to be scrubbed with salt, alum, potash or maize chaff, and soaking it briefly in hot water both removes the remaining slime and firms the flesh so it holds together instead of breaking apart. Grilling rather than frying keeps that firmness. It is served with rice, potato or yam.

Nigeria50 minMaryam

Ivorian Pepper Soup

Pepper soup runs across West Africa and each country handles it differently. The Ivorian version is distinguished by what happens to the vegetables: whole tomato, onion and aubergine go into the pot with the meat and the spices, cook until soft, are lifted out and crushed, and then go back into the broth. That produces a thicker, more textured soup than the clear Nigerian version. The aubergine is the marker. It breaks down into the broth and gives it body, which is not something the Nigerian pepper soups do, and it is what makes the Ivorian version recognisable. Goat is the usual meat, though the dish takes fish, shrimp, tripe, oxtail, chicken and beef equally well, and several can go in the same pot. It occupies the same place in Ivorian life that pepper soup occupies elsewhere in the region: it is what people eat when they are cold, unwell or want something restorative, and it is quick enough for a weeknight at under an hour. It is served with foutou banane, the pounded plantain, or with rice. The heat is adjustable and Ivorians say so openly, though the authentic version is very hot indeed.

Côte d'Ivoire50 minCuisine228

Okro Soup

Okro soup is among the quickest Nigerian soups to make and among the most eaten. Okra is chopped, cooked briefly in a stock built on assorted meat, dried fish and crayfish, finished with palm oil, and taken off the heat while it is still green. The whole thing takes minutes once the vegetables are cut, which is the trade off: most of the work is chopping. Okra is native to Africa, with its origin generally placed in the Ethiopian highlands, and it has spread from there across the continent and well beyond it. The draw it produces, the viscous quality that thickens the soup, is the entire point in West African cooking and the thing that people elsewhere often try to eliminate. Here it is what makes the soup work with a swallow: it slides. The names change across Nigeria. Ila asepo among the Yoruba, okwuru among the Igbo, miyan kubewa in Hausa, otong among the Efik, and okro generally. Potash, called kaun, is traditional for increasing the draw and is now optional and somewhat contested, with many cooks leaving it out entirely. Used at all it must be used sparingly, since too much kills the elasticity it is meant to increase. It is eaten with eba, fufu, semo, amala or pounded yam.

Nigeria25 minFoodChef

Uziza Egusi Soup

Uziza egusi is egusi soup made with uziza leaves, and the leaf is what distinguishes it. Egusi soup itself is one of Nigeria's most widely eaten dishes, thickened with ground melon seed and made differently by almost every group that makes it: miyan gushi in Hausa, ofe egusi in Igbo, efo elegusi in Yoruba. Uziza is Piper guineense, a climbing pepper vine native to West and Central Africa. Its leaves carry a sharp peppery flavour quite distinct from chilli heat, bright green when fresh and dark when dried, and it is the leaf that carries the version made in eastern Nigeria. It also goes by West African pepper, Ashanti pepper, Benin pepper, iyere and sorowisa, and its dried fruits and seeds are used as a separate aromatic spice. Quantity is the thing cooks warn each other about. Uziza is assertive and a heavy hand turns the soup harsh rather than fragrant, so it is added shredded in the last fifteen minutes rather than cooked through. The melon seed is scooped into the pot in small portions and left undisturbed to set into lumps, which is the technique that gives egusi its texture and the reason experienced cooks resist stirring.

Nigeria40 minJennifer

Afang Soup

Afang soup belongs to the Efik and Ibibio people of Cross River and Akwa Ibom in southeastern Nigeria, and it is built on two vegetables that do quite different jobs. Afang, okazi to the Igbo, and known botanically as Gnetum africanum, is a tough, wiry forest leaf with a faintly bitter edge. It is sliced extremely finely, almost shredded, because whole it would be unpleasant to eat. Waterleaf is the counterweight: soft, quick to wilt, and full of moisture, which is what gives the soup its body without much added liquid. The pairing is the point, and it is what separates afang from edikang ikong, the other great vegetable soup of the same region. Edikang ikong uses waterleaf and ugu, the pumpkin leaf, and reads as sweeter and greener. Afang uses waterleaf and okazi, and carries that characteristic bitterness. People from the region can tell them apart instantly, and the leaf is the whole distinction. Around the vegetables sits an assortment that scales with the household budget, beef, shaki, dried and fresh fish, periwinkle, crayfish, palm oil, pepper. It is a soup that has long been read as a marker of a generous table, and it is served with any of the swallows.

Nigeria10 minJennifer

Ayamase Stew

Ayamase is the green pepper stew of southwestern Nigeria, known almost as widely by two other names, ofada sauce, after the rice it is served with, and designer stew, which is what Lagos took to calling it. It is defined by two things that would be faults in almost any other stew. The peppers are green rather than red, which gives the sauce its unusual dark olive colour. And the palm oil is deliberately bleached, heated until it stops smoking and loses its red pigment, which strips out the characteristic palm flavour and leaves something nuttier and smokier behind. That bleaching step is the whole signature of the dish, and a version made with unbleached oil is a different sauce. Around that sit iru, the fermented locust bean that carries the deep savoury note, assorted meats including offal, and boiled eggs, which are close to obligatory. The name points to a person. Ayamase is traced to Ikenne-Remo in Ogun State and to a woman remembered as Mrs Felicia, Iya Mase, the wife of Mase, who is credited with the dish. It travelled from there into Lagos party food, where its reputation as something special was made. It is served with ofada rice, the short, unpolished local rice whose earthy flavour is the intended partner.

Nigeria55 mindonbuffy

Bunny Chow

Bunny chow is a hollowed loaf of white bread filled with curry, and it comes from the Indian community of Durban in KwaZulu-Natal. The bread is the bowl, the plate and the cutlery, and it is eaten by tearing pieces off the hollowed lid to scoop with. Its history is tied directly to apartheid. The most widely repeated account holds that it developed as a way to sell food to Black customers who were barred from eating in certain restaurants: the bread served as the container, so nothing had to be handed back. It was cheap, portable, filling enough for a day's work, and needed no crockery, which made it well suited to the indentured Indian labourers brought to work the sugarcane fields of KwaZulu-Natal. The name is generally traced to banya chow. Banya was an older term for the Indian trading community in Durban and chow is slang for food. Accounts of the origin do differ and none is settled. The filling is a Durban curry, aromatic with curry leaves, cardamom and cinnamon, made with chickpeas and potatoes and with or without meat, and mutton is the version Durban is best known for.

South Africa50 minJennifer

Shito, the dark Ghanaian chilli sauce made with dried shrimp and smoked fish in oil

Shito Sauce

Shito is Ghana's dark chilli condiment, and it is one of the few West African sauces that keeps for months. Dried shrimp, ground smoked fish, chilli, onion, ginger and garlic are cooked down slowly in a large quantity of oil until the whole thing turns nearly black, and the oil that rises to the top is what preserves it. The name is simply the Ga word for pepper. It is made differently in every region and village, and it comes coarse or smooth, medium or extremely hot, depending on the household. What does not change is the smokiness, which comes from ground smoked fish and dried shrimp rather than from any smoking of the sauce itself. That combination has been compared to Malaysian sambal belacan, which works on the same principle of dried seafood cooked into chilli paste. It goes with almost everything: waakye, kenkey, plain rice, fried plantain, yam, beans. Ghanaians abroad travel with jars of it. Its keeping quality is the practical reason it exists in the quantities it does, since a batch made once will sit in the cupboard for two or three months with the oil layer intact, and in the fridge after that.

Ghana50 minJennifer

Edikang Ikong soup served in a clay pot with assorted meat and seafood, a traditional Nigerian vegetable soup from Cross River State

Edikang Ikong (Vegetable Soup)

Edikang ikong, also written edikaikong or ekaikong, is the vegetable soup of the Efik and Ibibio people of southeastern Nigeria, and it is built on a deliberately generous quantity of two leaves. Ugu, the fluted pumpkin leaf, provides the flavour and the deep green. Waterleaf provides the moisture and the body, wilting down to release enough liquid that the soup largely cooks in its own juices. The proportion matters: this is a soup where the vegetables are the substance rather than a garnish stirred through at the end, and a properly made pot is dense with leaf. Around them sits an assortment that has given the dish its reputation, goat meat, dried fish, stockfish, shrimp or crayfish, periwinkle, palm oil. That density of protein is why it was long known as rich man's food, a soup that announced a household could afford it. It is now eaten across the country and well beyond it. It is the close relative of afang soup, which comes from the same people and follows the same structure. The distinction is entirely in the leaf: afang uses okazi, which is tough and faintly bitter, while edikang ikong uses ugu, which is softer and sweeter. Anyone from the region can tell them apart at a glance. It is served with any of the swallows.

Nigeria1 hrFoodChef

Nkatenkwan

Nkatenkwan is Ghana's peanut soup, and it is one of the country's most recognised dishes. Chicken is simmered with whole onions, tomatoes, ginger and kpakpo shito peppers, the softened vegetables are blended back into the broth, and a separately prepared peanut sauce is stirred through and simmered until the peanut oil rises to the surface. Peanuts are not indigenous to Africa. They originated in South America and were brought to the continent by the Portuguese in the sixteenth century, arriving possibly through Senegambia or through the Angola and Congo regions, and they spread from there into cooking across West, East, Southern and Central Africa. Before they arrived, Bambara beans filled a similar role, and dishes built on Bambara beans still exist alongside their peanut equivalents. Why peanuts displaced them so thoroughly is not settled. In Ghana the soup is credited to the Hausa and eaten across the whole country. It is almost always served with omo tuo, the rice balls, and it works with any fufu. Whole okra pods go in at the end as a garnish. It sits within a wide West African family of peanut soups and stews that includes maafe, domoda and tigadèguèna, all of which are made rather differently.

Ghana50 minBlessing

Banga Soup

Banga soup is made from palm fruit, not palm oil, but the pulp extracted from boiled palm nuts, which gives a soup with a completely different weight and flavour from anything oil alone produces. It belongs to the Niger Delta, and particularly to the Urhobo, though it is cooked across southern Nigeria under several names. Ofe akwu is the Igbo version, and while the base is the same the treatment differs, ofe akwu is usually served with rice, while banga is a soup for swallow. Oghwo amiedi and izuwo ibiedi are Urhobo and Isoko names for it. The same palm fruit base appears well beyond Nigeria. In Ghana it becomes abenkwan, palm nut soup; in Cameroon, mbanga soup. It is one of the clearest examples of a single West African technique carrying across borders and taking a different name in each place. What makes banga specifically banga is the spice set. Beletientien, oburunbebe stick, aidan fruit and the Delta spice blends give it an aromatic, slightly resinous character that is quite unlike any other Nigerian soup. The oburunbebe stick in particular is stirred through the pot and left in it. Fresh fish is the classic protein, catfish above all, though assorted meat and dried fish are equally common.

Nigeria50 minFoodChef

Eddoe Soup

Eddoe soup is a Liberian soup built on eddoes, the small starchy corms cooked until soft and then crushed so they thicken the broth themselves. No flour or other thickener is used, and the texture comes entirely from the root breaking down. Eddoe, Colocasia esculenta, goes by a long list of names depending on where you are: taro, dasheen, cocoyam. It is a small hairy corm with a light, crumbly flesh and a flavour close to potato but nuttier, which is why it is sometimes called the potato of the tropics. It did not originate in Africa. It is generally traced to India, spreading east to Burma and China and south to Indonesia, then reaching Egypt and the eastern Mediterranean before moving into Africa, the Guinea coast and the Caribbean. That distribution is why closely related soups exist in Guyana and across the West Indies, and why the source article spends as much time on Guyanese preparation as on Liberian. The version here is simple: eddoes and meat cooked together, crushed, then finished with onion, thyme and eschalot and a spoonful of butter. Salt meat or fresh pork, beef or chicken all work, and the choice is a matter of what is available.

Liberia50 minBlessing

Fish Seasoning

This is a dry spice rub for fish, and it belongs to no particular cuisine. Paprika, thyme, oregano, garlic powder, onion powder, salt, black pepper and cayenne is a broadly Western seasoning profile, and the source claims no country for it. That is worth stating plainly on a platform documenting African food, because Africa has a great many specific fish seasonings that this is not. Nigerian fish is seasoned with blended pepper, ginger and stock cubes. Senegalese fish carries rof, a stuffing of parsley, garlic and chilli pushed into slashes in the flesh. Moroccan fish is marinated in chermoula, built on coriander, cumin, paprika and preserved lemon. Any of those would be the regional answer to the question this recipe is asking. What is here is a competent all purpose blend, useful for grilling, baking or pan frying, and it keeps for months in a sealed jar. It is filed under Worldwide Recipes rather than presented as African, since inventing a heritage for a paprika and oregano rub would be exactly the kind of claim this archive should not make.

10 minDebby

Gomen Wat (Ethiopian Collard Greens)

Gomen is the Ethiopian word for collard greens, and gomen wat is the dish made from them: greens braised down with onion, garlic, ginger and spice until they wilt but keep some bite. It appears on almost every Ethiopian platter, spooned onto injera alongside the meat and lentil stews. It is also called ye'abasha gomen or abesha gomen. Abesha is a term used collectively for Ethiopians and Eritreans, so the name translates roughly as Ethiopian collard greens, distinguishing the local variety and preparation from others. Collards are eaten widely across the continent and beyond, from Tanzania and Kenya to Brazil, Portugal and the southern United States, but the Ethiopian treatment is specific. Niter kibbeh is what makes it specific. It is clarified butter infused with herbs and spices during the clarifying, closely comparable to Indian ghee except for that infusion, and it is the fat almost all Ethiopian cooking is built on. Using plain butter or oil produces a perfectly good pan of greens; it does not produce gomen wat. Because of the butter, this is vegetarian rather than vegan, and a fasting version made with oil exists for the Orthodox fasting days when animal products are avoided.

Ethiopia30 minBlessing

Ogbono Soup

Ogbono soup is thickened with ground ogbono, the seed of the African wild mango, and the texture it produces is what the soup exists for. Ground ogbono draws into long strands when stirred, giving a slippery, elastic consistency that Nigerians describe as drawing, and which okra also produces by a different route. It is a southeastern Nigerian soup, eaten across the country, and it is built like most Nigerian soups: assorted meat and ponmo, smoked and dried fish, ground crayfish, palm oil, scotch bonnet and leafy greens. Uziza and ugwu, the fluted pumpkin leaf, go in at the end. Two things go wrong with it and the source addresses both directly. Bitterness comes from not cooking the ogbono long enough, it needs a good twenty minutes on low heat to release its flavour and thicken properly, and five minutes gives a bland, bitter soup. A soapy taste means the ogbono itself has gone off: the seeds are oily and the oils turn rancid with exposure to air and moisture, producing a flavour that genuinely reads as soap. Buying ogbono in small quantities, storing it airtight and checking it before use is the whole answer to that.

Nigeria40 minSobecooks

African Native Sauce

Native sauce is a palm oil sauce with smoked fish, crayfish and pumpkin leaves, made in southern Nigeria and served alongside roasted or plain starches. Native in this context means locally sourced and traditionally seasoned rather than anything about the technique, and it distinguishes the sauce from tomato-based stews. What defines it is the absence of tomato. Palm oil, blended pepper, onion, crayfish and smoked fish carry the whole thing, and the result is darker, oilier and considerably more savoury than a stew built on tomato. The same principle produces native jollof rice and the family of dishes described as native across southeastern Nigeria. Ugwu goes in at the end and needs only a few minutes to wilt while keeping its colour. The sauce is quick, around twenty-five minutes from start to finish, which is unusual for a Nigerian sauce with this depth of flavour, and it comes from the fact that the smoked fish and crayfish are already concentrated. It is served with roasted yam or plantain, or with any starch, and it functions as a sauce to be spooned over rather than as a soup to be eaten with a swallow.

Nigeria25 minSobecooks

Ila Alasepo

Ila alasepo is one-pot okra soup, and the name explains it exactly. Ila is okra in Yoruba and asepo means to cook together, so ila alasepo is okra cooked together with everything else rather than served alongside a separate stew. That distinction carries a social history the contributor is frank about. In the conventional Yoruba arrangement, okra is served plain with a stew on the side, and the two arrive as separate things. Putting the stew ingredients into the okra itself was, in their grandmother's account, what you cooked when money was short, and it was considered the lesser dish among wealthier households. It has since shed that association entirely and is now made for convenience and because people like it. Viscosity is what okra soup is judged on. How much it draws determines whether it is considered good, and akaun, the traditional potash, is added specifically to increase it. This version deliberately loads the pot with proteins, beef or assorted meat, fresh fish, prawns and crayfish, which the contributor describes as turning a lesser soup into a rich one. It is eaten with eba, cassava fufu or semo, and the drawing texture is what makes the swallow slide.

Nigeria35 minBlessing

Haraimi, Libyan fish steaks cooked in a spicy tomato and caraway sauce

Haraimi (Libyan Spicy Fish Stew)

Haraimi is fish cooked in a fiercely spiced tomato sauce, and it is among the dishes most identified with Libya. It is quick, it is hot, and it is eaten with bread to mop the sauce, which is generally reckoned to be the best part. Its origins lie with the Libyan Jewish community. Libya had a Jewish population of several thousand within living memory, and haraimi was their dish before it became a staple in every Libyan household. Very few Jews remain in Libya today, and the dish has outlasted the community that created it, which is worth recording rather than passing over. Italian colonial rule is the other influence the source points to. Caraway is the spice that makes it. Added near the end so its aroma survives, it gives haraimi a warm, slightly aniseed note that distinguishes it from the many other Mediterranean fish-in-tomato dishes. Lemon juice goes in at the very end for the same reason. Tuna is used here, and any chunky firm fish works, since the flesh has to hold together in the sauce. It is served warm or at room temperature as an appetizer, or as a main with couscous or rice.

Libya35 minBlessing

Kenyan maharagwe, red kidney beans simmered in spiced coconut milk with tomato

Kenyan Maharagwe (Spiced Coconut Bean Soup)

Maharagwe is simply the Swahili word for beans, and the dish is red beans simmered with onion, tomato and spices in coconut milk. It is eaten across Kenya and is most often served with ugali, though rice and flatbreads are equally common. The coconut milk places it on the Swahili coast. Coastal Kenyan cooking uses coconut in a way inland cooking does not, and it arrived through the same Indian Ocean trade that brought cardamom, cumin, turmeric and coriander into the region's food. Those spices are all here, and the presence of mild curry powder alongside them reflects the long South Asian presence in East Africa. It reads as though it should be fiery and is not. The spice list is long and includes chilli, but the coconut milk rounds all of it off, so the finished dish is warm and aromatic rather than hot. It is also quick: with cooked or tinned beans it is on the table in under thirty minutes. The sauce should come up to just cover the beans and will thicken further as it cools, so it is worth stopping while it still looks slightly loose.

Kenya40 minNympha

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