Recettes

Lablabi (Tunisian Chickpea Soup)

Lablabi is Tunisia's chickpea breakfast: a thin, heavily spiced chickpea broth ladled over torn stale bread, finished with a soft egg, tuna, olives, harissa, cumin, lemon and olive oil. It is served in casual counter-service places across the country and eaten with two spoons, mashing the bread down into the broth as you go. It is frugal food by design. Stale bread and dried chickpeas are the base, and everything else is a topping. The broth is not thickened or enriched, the flavour comes from cooking the chickpeas slowly in their own water with cumin, caraway and harissa, and that cooking liquid is the dish. This is the reason the source insists on dried chickpeas rather than tinned: the broth is a by-product you cannot buy. If you do use tinned chickpeas, stock in place of water is the compensation. The name travels. There is an Assyrian chickpea dish also called lablabi, an Iraqi version finished with lemon juice, and the Turkish nohut çorbası, which is made with lamb. The Tunisian one is distinguished by harissa and by the bread at the bottom of the bowl. Traditionally it is breakfast, eaten to start a cold morning. It is now eaten at any hour, and the modern habit of piling on colourful toppings has made it considerably more photogenic than it used to be.

1 hr 25 minEasyTunisia

Recette de Blessing · Africook

Bitter leaf Soup (Ofe Onugbu)

Ofe Onugbu is the bitter leaf soup of the Igbo people of southeastern Nigeria, and its whole character rests on how much bitterness is left in the leaf. Onugbu is Vernonia amygdalina, bitter leaf, and it is genuinely bitter, unpalatably so if used straight. The preparation therefore begins with washing and squeezing the leaves repeatedly until most of that bitterness is drawn out. How far to go is a judgement, and it is where cooks differ: too little and the soup is harsh, too much and you have removed the thing the soup is named for. Some bitterness should remain. Cocoyam is the traditional thickener. The corms are boiled, peeled and pounded to a smooth paste, then dropped into the pot in small lumps that dissolve as it simmers, giving the soup its heavy, slightly sticky body. Palm oil, assorted beef including shaki, stockfish and dried fish, crayfish and ogiri Igbo make up the rest. Washed bitter leaf is sold ready-prepared in African grocers, which removes the most laborious and most judgement-dependent step.

MediumNigeria

Recette de FoodChef · Africook

Kontomire Stew

Kontomire is the Twi word for cocoyam leaves, and kontomire stew is the dish that has made them Ghana's most eaten green. The leaves are broad and thick, closer to collard greens in body than to spinach, and they hold their structure through a long cook rather than collapsing. The stew belongs to Akan cooking and forms one half of ampesi, the pairing of a stew with yam, plantain or cocoyam that is among the most common meals in southern Ghana. It exists in more than one form. Abom, the Asante version, is steamed cocoyam leaves ground with onion, pepper and tomato and finished with palm oil. The version here is tomato based and thickened with ground melon seeds, which Ghanaians call egusi or agushie, and which give it a body and a nuttiness that abom does not have. Kontomire stew sits inside the wider West African family of leaf stews known collectively as palava sauce, cooked in Ghana, Liberia, Sierra Leone and Nigeria with the greens each country has. Ghana's is distinguished by the cocoyam leaf and by the melon seed.

★★★★★Les mieux notées

50 minMediumGhana

Recette de Jennifer · Africook

Oha Soup

Oha soup is an Igbo soup from southeastern Nigeria, built on the leaves of Pterocarpus mildbraedii, an African evergreen tree. The leaves are seasonal, which makes the soup an occasion rather than an everyday dish, and there is no substitute that reproduces its flavour. The leaves are shredded by hand, never cut with a knife. The reason given is that a blade turns the soup bitter, and whether or not that holds chemically, the practice is observed universally and is one of the more widely known food rules in Igbo cooking. It is worth following on its own terms. Thickening is where families diverge. Cocoyam, pounded smooth after boiling, is the standard, though achi and ofor are both used and give slightly different bodies. The oil divides along geography: Anambra households use akwu, raw palm kernel oil, while Imo households use ordinary palm oil, and each considers its own version correct. Uziza leaves go in alongside the oha for a peppery counterpoint, and ogiri igbo, the fermented seasoning paste, supplies the deep savoury note the soup is built around.

★★★★★Les mieux notées

1 hr 25 minMediumNigeria

Recette de Nympha · Africook