Recettes

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Ghana Jollof Rice

Ghanaian jollof rice is defined against its rivals as much as on its own terms, and Ghanaians are entirely comfortable with that. It is a tomato based rice, aromatic rather than fiery, seasoned with curry powder, garlic and ginger, and cooked in basmati. Every one of those choices is a position in an argument. The rice is the clearest one. Ghanaians use basmati, which stays separate and perfumed and carries the aromatics; Nigerians use long grain parboiled, which absorbs the tomato base and takes on the smoke. Neither is a mistake. They produce genuinely different dishes that share a name, and the preference in each country is consistent enough to be a national marker. The jollof rivalry between Ghana and Nigeria is the continent's most famous culinary argument, conducted on social media, at dinner tables and in the press with an intensity that has very little to do with rice and a great deal to do with two confident countries enjoying themselves. The honest position on the origin is that the dish descends from the Senegambian rice tradition rather than from either country. The honest position on which is better is that both are right within their own tradition, and Ghanaians serve theirs at every social gathering and celebration that matters.

Les mieux notées

1 hr 20 minMediumGhana

Recette de Debby · Africook

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Tarb (Grilled Kofta Wrapped in Lamb Fat)

Tarb is kofta wrapped in caul fat and grilled, and the caul is what the dish is named for. Tarb is the Egyptian word for the lacy membrane of fat that surrounds a lamb's stomach, and wrapping seasoned minced lamb in it produces something that ordinary kofta cannot: the fat renders during cooking, bastes the meat from the outside in, and crisps to a golden shell. Its occasion is Eid al-Adha, the festival of sacrifice, and the connection is direct rather than customary. Eid al-Adha involves the slaughter of an animal and the distribution of its meat, and caul fat is one of the parts that becomes available when a whole lamb is broken down at home. A dish built on caul is a dish that belongs to the moment when a whole animal is being used, which is why tarb appears then and rarely otherwise. Kofta itself runs across Egypt and the whole Middle East, minced meat with onion, parsley and spices, formed and grilled. Tarb is the version that takes it somewhere richer, and Egyptians treat it as a heavy dish for a family celebration rather than everyday food. It is found in the grilled meat restaurants that specialise in kofta, kebab and grilled chicken across Egypt, served with rice or pasta.

Les mieux notées

1 hr 55 minMediumEgypt

Recette de Blessing · Africook

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Gored Gored

Gored gored is cubed raw beef, dressed in spiced clarified butter and served with chilli condiments. It is Ethiopian and Eritrean, and it is celebration food, served at holidays, at weddings, and when a household wants to mark an occasion. Raw beef occupies a particular place in Ethiopian eating that has no real equivalent elsewhere in Africa. Gored gored uses cubes, usually tenderloin or another tender cut, tossed in niter kibbeh, butter clarified with ginger, garlic, korarima and other spices, which is one of the foundations of the whole cuisine. Kitfo, its close relative, uses minced rather than cubed beef and is more heavily worked with the spice. The seasonings around it are the point. Mitmita is the fierce chilli blend usually served with it. Awaze, a paste built on berbere, is the other standard partner. Both are hot enough to be used sparingly and both are designed for exactly this. It is eaten with injera, and often with ayib, the mild fresh cheese, which cools it. Its exact origins are not well documented, accounts of how the dish arose are thin and largely speculative, and it is more honest to say that it is long-established than to repeat an origin story that cannot be supported.

Les mieux notées

EasyEthiopia · East Africa

Recette de Blessing · Africook

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Tunisian Mloukhia

Tunisian mloukhia is not the dish of the same name eaten in Egypt, and the difference is fundamental. Egyptians cook the fresh leaves of jute mallow into a green soup. Tunisians dry the leaves, grind them to a powder, and cook that powder in oil for hours until it turns from green to deep brown and finally to something close to black. The two share a plant and almost nothing else. The name carries a claim. Mloukhia derives from the Arabic malik, meaning king, and in Tunisia the dish is called the delicacy of the king. It is cooked slowly over the low heat of a kanoun, a charcoal brazier, for at least eight hours in the traditional method, and it is not unusual for the paste to be started the evening before and finished the next day. Its occasions are precise and they cross religious lines. Tunisian Muslims eat it on Ras el am, the first day of the Hegira new year, so that the year begins under the sign of green, which is the colour of Islam and of hope. It appears at the end of mourning periods and on the first day of Eid al-Fitr. The Jews of Nabeul kept the same custom and now cook mloukhia for Rosh Hashanah. Tunisians say plainly that there is no middle position on it: you love it or you do not.

Les mieux notées

6 hr 30 minHardTunisia

Recette de Blessing · Africook

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