Recettes

Edo Black Soup

Edo black soup takes its name from its colour, and the colour comes entirely from its leaves. Bitter leaf, scent leaf and uziza are ground together until they release a dark green so deep it reads as black in the bowl, and that grinding is the whole architecture of the dish: the leaves are the thickener, the flavour and the appearance at once. It belongs to Edo State in southern Nigeria and is particularly associated with the Esan people. Within Nigeria's enormous catalogue of soups, black soup is distinguished by how little palm oil it uses. Most southern Nigerian soups are built on a generous quantity of it; this one uses enough to round the leaves and no more, which leaves the bitterness and the aromatic sharpness of the greens in the foreground rather than behind a screen of oil. The three leaves are argued about. Some Edo cooks hold that two are sufficient, others that all three are necessary for balance, and the ratio between them is a matter of household preference. Black soup is eaten with fufu or pounded yam, and the pairing of a dense swallow against a soup this concentrated is the point of both.

Nigeria40 minTaiwo Oladapo

Kontomire Stew

Kontomire is the Twi word for cocoyam leaves, and kontomire stew is the dish that has made them Ghana's most eaten green. The leaves are broad and thick, closer to collard greens in body than to spinach, and they hold their structure through a long cook rather than collapsing. The stew belongs to Akan cooking and forms one half of ampesi, the pairing of a stew with yam, plantain or cocoyam that is among the most common meals in southern Ghana. It exists in more than one form. Abom, the Asante version, is steamed cocoyam leaves ground with onion, pepper and tomato and finished with palm oil. The version here is tomato based and thickened with ground melon seeds, which Ghanaians call egusi or agushie, and which give it a body and a nuttiness that abom does not have. Kontomire stew sits inside the wider West African family of leaf stews known collectively as palava sauce, cooked in Ghana, Liberia, Sierra Leone and Nigeria with the greens each country has. Ghana's is distinguished by the cocoyam leaf and by the melon seed.

Ghana50 minJennifer

Palmnut soup, known in Ghana as abenkwan, a rich orange soup of palm fruit pulp with fish and meat, served with fufu

Palmnut Soup (Abenkwan)

Abenkwan is the Akan name for palmnut soup, and the Akan of Ghana have been producing and eating it for generations. It is built on palm cream, the thick pulp pressed from the fruit of the oil palm, which gives the soup its deep orange colour, its weight and a rich, faintly smoky flavour that no other ingredient produces. The palm fruit is what makes it. Palm oil runs through Ghanaian and West African cooking generally, but abenkwan uses the whole fruit pulp rather than the extracted oil, which is a different ingredient with a different result: less greasy, more substantial, and carrying a fruitiness the oil alone does not have. Smoked and dried fish, marinated meats and aromatics go into that base, and the soup is eaten with fufu, omo tuo, banku, fonio or rice. Palmnut soup is not exclusive to Ghana, and the region cooks it under several names. It is common in Côte d'Ivoire. In Nigeria's Niger Delta, banga soup is the same palm fruit base handled differently, most closely associated with the Urhobo and finished with beletete leaf and a distinct spice mix. Each country's version is recognisably from the same fruit and unmistakably its own.

Ghana1 hr 20 minFoodChef

Egusi Soup

Egusi soup is eaten across every region of Nigeria, every ethnic group and every economic class, which is a claim very few dishes anywhere can support. Its name changes with the language and the dish does not: miyan gushi in Hausa, ofe egusi in Igbo, efo elegusi in Yoruba. Its defining ingredient is ground egusi, the dried seed of a gourd related to the watermelon, milled to a meal that thickens and enriches the soup around it. The seeds are ground dry, without water, until the powder turns to a paste under the blade. Nothing else produces the particular nutty, faintly bitter depth that egusi gives, which is why the soup is named for the seed rather than for the meat or the greens that also go into it. There is no single method. The caking approach lets the ground seed set into soft curds in the stock; the frying approach starts the egusi in palm oil; the moulding approach forms it into balls that are eaten like meat. Ijebu cooks in Ogun State make it with no vegetables at all. Every one of these is egusi soup, and Nigerians will argue for their own without seriously disputing anyone else's. It is eaten with pounded yam, fufu, eba, amala or any swallow at hand.

Nigeria50 minFoodChef

Buka stew, a Nigerian pepper stew with assorted meats cooked in bleached palm oil

Buka Stew With Assorted Meats (Obe Ata)

Buka stew is the pepper stew of western Nigeria, named for the places that made it famous. A buka is a small, cheap local eating house, and the buka is where working Lagos eats: fresh food, several dishes, no cooking at home, and no pretensions about any of it. The stew belongs to those kitchens and carries their signature. It is a pepper stew rather than a tomato stew, and the distinction is the whole recipe: tatashe and rodo dominate and tomato is kept back, which is the reverse of the everyday Nigerian stew ratio. The palm oil is bleached first, heated until it changes character, and that step produces the specific aroma that makes a buka identifiable from the street. Seasoning is kept minimal on purpose, because the peppers and the oil are doing the work. It is made with assorted meats, the cow parts that a household kitchen might skip and a buka never does, deep fried before they go into the pot. The women who run these kitchens are known collectively in Nigerian speech as Iya Basira, a name that stands in for all of them, and mama put is what the roadside version is called. Buka stew is eaten with white rice, beans, yam, fried plantain or agege bread.

Nigeria50 minJennifer

Miyan kuka, a Northern Nigerian baobab leaf soup, dark green and thick, served with tuwon shinkafa

Miyan Kuka (Baobab Leaves Soup)

Miyan kuka is Hausa soup made from powdered baobab leaves, and it is the one Northern Nigerian dish that people warn you about before they serve it. It is dark green, mucilaginous and thick, and it does not look like anything anyone finds appetising on first sight. Northerners are entirely aware of this and serve it anyway, because the taste is not in dispute even where the appearance is. Kuka is the dried and ground leaf of the baobab, sold as a dark green powder in markets across the north and instantly recognisable to anyone who has shopped there. The powder is whisked into a seasoned stock at the very end of cooking, which is where the soup gets both its body and its drawing texture. It is also called luru. Nigeria's soups map closely onto its peoples, and miyan kuka is the north's entry in that map: Yoruba households have ewedu, Igbo have ofe ugba, Edo have bitter leaf soup, the riverine south has fisherman soup. Miyan kuka is eaten with tuwon shinkafa, tuwon dawa or any swallow, and it is one of the dishes that is genuinely better on the second day, which is a claim its cooks make readily and which holds up.

Nigeria30 minBeatrice

Nsala soup, an Igbo white soup from eastern Nigeria made without palm oil and thickened with pounded yam

Nsala Soup (White Soup)

Ofe nsala is called white soup for a reason that will be obvious to anyone who knows Nigerian cooking: it contains no palm oil. Almost every soup of the Nigerian south is built on palm oil, and its absence here is not a simplification but the defining decision. What is left is a clear, pale, intensely aromatic broth in which every other ingredient has nowhere to hide. It belongs to the Igbo of eastern Nigeria and is particularly associated with Anambra State. Catfish is the traditional protein, and the pairing of fresh river fish with a clean broth is the point of the dish, though goat meat, old chicken and smoked turkey are all used. Its aromatic character comes from uziza seed, ehuru, ogiri and utazi leaf, the last of which is bitter and used in deliberately small quantities. The thickener is pounded yam, added to the broth in small amounts and dissolved. This is what gives nsala its body without any oil or seed, and it is the same technique used in fisherman soup further south. Nsala has a particular place in Igbo households as a soup made for new mothers and for people recovering, which is a role that follows from its lightness rather than being asserted on top of it.

Nigeria1 hr 47 minFoodChef

Maafe

Maafe is the groundnut stew of West Africa, and its name comes from the Mandinka word for sauce. That plainness is accurate: maafe is a peanut sauce, thickened and enriched until it coats meat and vegetables, and it is one of the most recognisable things the region cooks. It traces to the Mandinka and Bambara of Mali, where it is called tigadegena in Bamanankan and domodah in Mandinka, and it spread from there into Senegal and across the rest of West Africa. Each country renamed it: maafe in Senegal, sauce d'arachide in Côte d'Ivoire, domoda in the Gambia. It also crossed the Atlantic, and peanut soups in parts of the American South carry a clear family resemblance. Its history has an economic layer. Peanut stews existed before the peanut, made with indigenous groundnuts, and the arrival of the American peanut in the 16th century gave them a better crop. What entrenched maafe was the colonial period, when groundnut cultivation was expanded enormously for export and West African kitchens found themselves with far more peanuts than they had previously used. A dish partly shaped by a cash crop economy is not a diminished dish, and Senegalese eat maafe communally from a shared platter with rice, which is the ordinary form of a Senegalese meal.

Senegal1 hr 20 minFoodChef

Cassava Leaf Soup

Cassava leaf soup is eaten from Liberia and Sierra Leone through to Central Africa, where it is known as saka saka or pondu, and it is one of the most widely shared dishes on the continent. Wherever cassava is grown for its root, the leaves are eaten too, and a great many countries have arrived independently at some version of this. Calling it a soup understates it. It is closer to a thick stew: pounded cassava leaves cooked down with palm oil, smoked meat or fish and ground crayfish until the whole thing is dense and dark green. The leaves themselves carry little flavour of their own and take on whatever they are cooked with, which is why the smoked protein and the palm oil matter so much to the result. The West African version this recipe follows differs from the Central African one in its details. Liberian and Sierra Leonean cooks commonly use groundnut paste alongside the palm oil, and smoked turkey or fish rather than the salted fish more common further east. What holds across all of them is the pounding, the long cook and the requirement that the leaves be thoroughly cooked, since cassava leaves are not safe raw. It is eaten over rice.

Liberia40 minCuisine228

Goat Meat Pepper Soup

Pepper soup is a Nigerian category rather than a single recipe, and the goat meat version is among the most eaten of them. What holds the family together is the broth: clear, thin, aggressively hot and built on a specific spice blend rather than on tomato, oil or thickener. Nothing in a pepper soup is there for body. The spice blend is what makes it. Pepper soup spice varies by region and by household but is built around African nutmeg, ehuru, uziza seed and other aromatics, and it is the one ingredient that cannot be left out or approximated. Everything else in the bowl is variable: catfish in the Delta and Rivers, goat in the north, chicken as the widely available option, assorted meat where a household is feeding a crowd. Goat gives it a depth the lighter proteins do not. It also demands time, which is why this is not a weeknight soup unless the meat was cooked the night before or a pressure pot is involved. Pepper soup occupies a particular place in Nigerian life as restorative food, eaten when someone is unwell, cold or worn out at the end of a day, and it is served both as a first course and as a full meal with yam, plantain or rice.

Nigeria1 hr 35 minDebby

Gbegiri, a smooth Yoruba bean soup, served alongside ewedu and amala as abula

Gbegiri Soup (Beans Soup)

Gbegiri is Yoruba bean soup, smooth to the point of being velvety, pale orange from a small quantity of palm oil, and mild in a food culture that generally is not. It comes from southwestern Nigeria and it is rarely eaten alone. Its natural home is abula, the combination that puts gbegiri and ewedu together on a plate with amala and a pepper stew. The three components do different things: gbegiri brings body and mildness, ewedu brings the drawing green texture, and the stew brings heat. Ordering abula in an Ibadan or Lagos buka gets you all of it, and many people go to a buka specifically for the gbegiri. Making it well is a matter of texture rather than seasoning. Brown beans or black eyed beans are soaked so the skins can be slipped off, cooked until they collapse, and then either blended or worked through a sieve with an ijabe, the small cooking broom. Oyo State cooks will tell you the sieve is the authentic method and the blender is the concession, and both routes are used. The palm oil goes in for colour rather than flavour, and the quantity is deliberately small.

Nigeria35 minBlessing

Thiébou Yapp

Thiébou yapp is the meat version of Senegal's defining rice dish. Where thieboudienne uses fish, thiébou yapp uses beef or lamb, and the Wolof name says so directly: thiébou for rice, yapp for meat, in the same construction that gives thiébou jen its name from jen, fish. The method is the same in structure. Meat is marinated, browned, and simmered in a seasoned broth; the rice then goes into that broth and takes all of it up. What holds the dish together is nokoss, the Senegalese seasoning base of onion, parsley, garlic, chilli and bell pepper pounded together, which is used as a marinade for the meat and stirred back into the broth in stages. It is a weekday dish in a way thieboudienne is not. Thieboudienne is what opens a significant family lunch and requires a whole stuffed fish and a full braise of vegetables; thiébou yapp is quicker, cheaper and more forgiving, and it is what appears when the household is not marking an occasion. It is served on a large communal platter, dressed at the table with an onion and vegetable sauce, sliced tomato and hard cooked egg.

Senegal2 hr 5 minBlessing

Ghana abom, ground cocoyam leaves with palm oil, served with boiled plantain, egg, fish and avocado

Ghana Abomu Recipe

Abom, written abomu here, is the simpler of the two main Ghanaian cocoyam leaf preparations. Where the tomato based kontomire stew is thickened with ground melon seed and cooked in a pot, abom is steamed leaves ground in an asanka with onion, pepper and ginger, finished with hot palm oil poured over the top. It is closer to a relish than to a stew. The asanka is the tool that defines it. The ridged earthenware bowl grinds rather than purees, and everything in an abom passes through it: the aromatics first, then the salted fish, then the greens, each stage mashed into the last. That produces a coarse, uneven texture that a blender cannot reproduce and that Ghanaians would notice immediately. It is Asante food particularly, and it is assembled rather than cooked in the ordinary sense. Plantain, egg, avocado and several kinds of fish, koobi, kakro, smoked mackerel and smoked turkey, go onto the plate around the greens, and hot palm oil is ladled over at the end. Kontomire is the proper leaf. Ghanaians abroad substitute spinach, which the source acknowledges directly, and the result is milder and softer than the cocoyam leaf gives.

Ghana1 hr 20 minFante_Oh3maa_

Otong Soup

Otong soup is the Efik okra soup of Cross River State in south eastern Nigeria, and what separates it from every other okra soup in the country is the pairing of two vegetables rather than one. Okra provides the draw; ikong ubong, the pumpkin leaf known elsewhere as ugwu, provides the body and the green. Uziza leaf goes in for aroma. Okra soup is made across Nigeria and the names shift with the language: ila asepo among the Yoruba, okwuru among the Igbo, miyan kubewa in Hausa, and otong among the Efik. Each has its own emphasis, and the two vegetable combination is what marks this one as Efik rather than anything else. The technique is short and the timing is unforgiving. Okra goes in near the end, the pot is never covered after that point, and the soup comes off the heat while the okra is still green and resilient, because the retained heat keeps cooking it for another couple of minutes. Covered or overcooked, okra goes brown and loses its texture entirely. The Efik version is generous with seafood, taking in prawns, crab, mussels and smoked catfish alongside the assorted meat, which reflects a state built around water. It is eaten with ayan ekpang, the grated steamed cocoyam, or with any swallow.

Nigeria55 minJennifer

Shito, the Ghanaian black pepper sauce of dried fish, shrimp and pepper cooked in oil, in a glass jar

Shito (Black Pepper Sauce)

Shito is Ghana's black pepper sauce, and it is the condiment the country's food is built around. Dried fish, dried shrimp, onion, ginger and a very large quantity of ground pepper are cooked down in oil until the whole thing turns near black and the oil separates and rises. It is intensely savoury, genuinely hot, and used a spoonful at a time. What makes it structurally interesting is that it keeps. Fried properly, shito lasts weeks or months on a shelf without refrigeration, because the oil seals it and there is almost no water left in it. That is why Ghanaians abroad carry jars of it in luggage and why it is made in large batches rather than small ones. Its reach across the Ghanaian table is close to total. Waakye, kenkey and banku are barely considered complete without it. Beyond those it goes with jollof, fried rice, braised rice, gari, fried yam, fried plantain, grilled meat and, as the source for this recipe points out, bread. It is the thing that carries Ghanaian food, and the one rule about keeping it matters: only ever take shito out with a clean dry spoon, because a wet spoon introduces water and the jar will spoil.

Ghana1 hr 20 minAmanda Dadson

Cassava leaf soup, a West African stew of cassava leaves with groundnut and palm oil, served over rice

Cassava Leaf Soup with Peanut Butter

Cassava leaf soup is eaten across West and Central Africa, and its names map the geography: saka saka and pondu in the Congo basin, and simply cassava leaf in Liberia, Sierra Leone and Guinea. Wherever cassava is grown for its root, the leaves are eaten too, and a great many countries have arrived at some version of this independently. The West African version this recipe follows is built on groundnut. Peanut butter goes in with the leaves and palm oil, which gives a thicker, richer, nuttier result than the Central African versions that lean on palm oil alone. Smoked turkey, fish or chicken supplies the savoury depth, and scotch bonnet supplies the heat. The leaves themselves carry very little flavour, which is precisely why the dish works: they absorb whatever they are cooked with, so the palm oil, the groundnut and the smoked protein are doing all the talking. That also means the quality of those three decides the pot. It is served over rice, and the one non negotiable is cooking: cassava leaves must be thoroughly cooked, since they are not safe raw. Frozen leaves sold commercially have generally been blanched already, which is why this version cooks relatively briefly.

Liberia1 hrDebby

Catfish and Carrot Sauce

Catfish is everywhere in Nigeria now, and the reason is farming rather than fishing. Catfish aquaculture expanded enormously across the country from the 1990s onward, at both household and commercial scale, and a fish that was once a river catch became one of the most available proteins in the market. Dishes built around it have multiplied accordingly. This one is a contemporary Nigerian preparation rather than an inherited dish. Carrot and tomato are blended into a sauce in a three to one ratio, so the carrot rather than the tomato carries it, giving a sweeter and thicker base than a standard Nigerian stew. The fish is marinated, grilled or baked separately, and set into the sauce at the end rather than cooked in it. Cleaning is the part that determines whether it works. Catfish is naturally slimy and has to be scrubbed with salt, alum, potash or maize chaff, and soaking it briefly in hot water both removes the remaining slime and firms the flesh so it holds together instead of breaking apart. Grilling rather than frying keeps that firmness. It is served with rice, potato or yam.

Nigeria50 minMaryam

Okro Soup

Okro soup is among the quickest Nigerian soups to make and among the most eaten. Okra is chopped, cooked briefly in a stock built on assorted meat, dried fish and crayfish, finished with palm oil, and taken off the heat while it is still green. The whole thing takes minutes once the vegetables are cut, which is the trade off: most of the work is chopping. Okra is native to Africa, with its origin generally placed in the Ethiopian highlands, and it has spread from there across the continent and well beyond it. The draw it produces, the viscous quality that thickens the soup, is the entire point in West African cooking and the thing that people elsewhere often try to eliminate. Here it is what makes the soup work with a swallow: it slides. The names change across Nigeria. Ila asepo among the Yoruba, okwuru among the Igbo, miyan kubewa in Hausa, otong among the Efik, and okro generally. Potash, called kaun, is traditional for increasing the draw and is now optional and somewhat contested, with many cooks leaving it out entirely. Used at all it must be used sparingly, since too much kills the elasticity it is meant to increase. It is eaten with eba, fufu, semo, amala or pounded yam.

Nigeria25 minFoodChef

Ghanaian Chicken Light Soup

Light soup is one of Ghana's most eaten soups, and the name is descriptive rather than dismissive. It carries no palm oil, no groundnut paste and no thickener, so what remains is a clear, hot, deeply flavoured broth built on tomato, onion, ginger and habanero, with the chicken cooked in it rather than added to it. That absence is what defines it against the country's other soups. Palm nut soup and groundnut soup are both rich and heavy; light soup is the counterweight, and Ghanaians reach for it when they want something restorative. It has a widespread reputation as the soup given to people who are unwell and to women after childbirth, which reflects both its clarity and its heat. Fufu is the standard partner, and the combination of light soup and fufu is the one most often named when Ghanaians are asked about their national dish. It is served at restaurants and at events more than it is made casually at home, partly because pounding fufu is work. The technique that matters is the steaming of the seasoned chicken before any water goes in, which builds the stock the soup is made of.

Ghana1 hr 35 minAmanda Dadson

Oha Soup

Oha soup is an Igbo soup from southeastern Nigeria, built on the leaves of Pterocarpus mildbraedii, an African evergreen tree. The leaves are seasonal, which makes the soup an occasion rather than an everyday dish, and there is no substitute that reproduces its flavour. The leaves are shredded by hand, never cut with a knife. The reason given is that a blade turns the soup bitter, and whether or not that holds chemically, the practice is observed universally and is one of the more widely known food rules in Igbo cooking. It is worth following on its own terms. Thickening is where families diverge. Cocoyam, pounded smooth after boiling, is the standard, though achi and ofor are both used and give slightly different bodies. The oil divides along geography: Anambra households use akwu, raw palm kernel oil, while Imo households use ordinary palm oil, and each considers its own version correct. Uziza leaves go in alongside the oha for a peppery counterpoint, and ogiri igbo, the fermented seasoning paste, supplies the deep savoury note the soup is built around.

Nigeria1 hr 25 minNympha

Uziza Egusi Soup

Uziza egusi is egusi soup made with uziza leaves, and the leaf is what distinguishes it. Egusi soup itself is one of Nigeria's most widely eaten dishes, thickened with ground melon seed and made differently by almost every group that makes it: miyan gushi in Hausa, ofe egusi in Igbo, efo elegusi in Yoruba. Uziza is Piper guineense, a climbing pepper vine native to West and Central Africa. Its leaves carry a sharp peppery flavour quite distinct from chilli heat, bright green when fresh and dark when dried, and it is the leaf that carries the version made in eastern Nigeria. It also goes by West African pepper, Ashanti pepper, Benin pepper, iyere and sorowisa, and its dried fruits and seeds are used as a separate aromatic spice. Quantity is the thing cooks warn each other about. Uziza is assertive and a heavy hand turns the soup harsh rather than fragrant, so it is added shredded in the last fifteen minutes rather than cooked through. The melon seed is scooped into the pot in small portions and left undisturbed to set into lumps, which is the technique that gives egusi its texture and the reason experienced cooks resist stirring.

Nigeria40 minJennifer

Afang Soup

Afang soup belongs to the Efik and Ibibio people of Cross River and Akwa Ibom in southeastern Nigeria, and it is built on two vegetables that do quite different jobs. Afang, okazi to the Igbo, and known botanically as Gnetum africanum, is a tough, wiry forest leaf with a faintly bitter edge. It is sliced extremely finely, almost shredded, because whole it would be unpleasant to eat. Waterleaf is the counterweight: soft, quick to wilt, and full of moisture, which is what gives the soup its body without much added liquid. The pairing is the point, and it is what separates afang from edikang ikong, the other great vegetable soup of the same region. Edikang ikong uses waterleaf and ugu, the pumpkin leaf, and reads as sweeter and greener. Afang uses waterleaf and okazi, and carries that characteristic bitterness. People from the region can tell them apart instantly, and the leaf is the whole distinction. Around the vegetables sits an assortment that scales with the household budget, beef, shaki, dried and fresh fish, periwinkle, crayfish, palm oil, pepper. It is a soup that has long been read as a marker of a generous table, and it is served with any of the swallows.

Nigeria10 minJennifer

Ayamase Stew

Ayamase is the green pepper stew of southwestern Nigeria, known almost as widely by two other names, ofada sauce, after the rice it is served with, and designer stew, which is what Lagos took to calling it. It is defined by two things that would be faults in almost any other stew. The peppers are green rather than red, which gives the sauce its unusual dark olive colour. And the palm oil is deliberately bleached, heated until it stops smoking and loses its red pigment, which strips out the characteristic palm flavour and leaves something nuttier and smokier behind. That bleaching step is the whole signature of the dish, and a version made with unbleached oil is a different sauce. Around that sit iru, the fermented locust bean that carries the deep savoury note, assorted meats including offal, and boiled eggs, which are close to obligatory. The name points to a person. Ayamase is traced to Ikenne-Remo in Ogun State and to a woman remembered as Mrs Felicia, Iya Mase, the wife of Mase, who is credited with the dish. It travelled from there into Lagos party food, where its reputation as something special was made. It is served with ofada rice, the short, unpolished local rice whose earthy flavour is the intended partner.

Nigeria55 mindonbuffy

Groundnut Soup

Groundnut soup is peanut soup, and it is one of the most widely distributed dishes in West Africa. It travels under a long list of names: maafe or mafé in Wolof, sauce d'arachide in French, tigadèguèna in Bambara, domoda in the Gambia, and the tradition is generally traced to the Mandinka and Bambara peoples of Mali. In Nigeria it is made differently in the north and the south, and it is particularly associated with the Etsako people of Edo State, who call it omisagwe. This version is a southern one, built like an egusi soup with assorted meat, stockfish, smoked fish, crayfish and palm oil, and thickened with a paste of roasted groundnuts blended with uziza, onion and crayfish. It looks and eats close to egusi, which is a comparison Nigerians make themselves. Bitter leaf is the traditional green, with ugu or spinach substituted when it is unavailable, and efirin, the Nigerian basil, goes in off the heat at the end. How thick it should be is entirely a matter of preference, which is why the groundnut paste is added gradually rather than all at once. The palm oil floating on the surface at the end is not an accident and is considered correct.

Nigeria1 hr 25 minBeatrice

Light Soup

Light soup is Ghanaian, and the name describes its body rather than its strength. It is a thin, clear, tomato-based broth with no thickener at all, no palm nut, no groundnut paste, no ground seeds, which sets it apart from most of the soups it sits beside on a Ghanaian table. It is documented as originating with the Ga-Dangme people of the Greater Accra region, and specifically as a fishermen's soup. The early form was tomato-based and made with sea fish, called aklo or aklor, cooked on the coast around Accra. Over time it broadened to take goat, lamb or chicken, and today it is as likely to be made with meat as with fish. Its reputation is partly medicinal. A hot bowl of light soup, made properly peppery, is what many Ghanaian households reach for when someone has a cold, and it is common comfort food in a way that goes beyond flavour. The standard partner is fufu, and the pairing is close to fixed, fufu and light soup is a single idea in Ghanaian eating rather than two things served together. It is also eaten with omo tuo, the rice balls, and with banku. Because there is no thickener, everything depends on the stock: the soup tastes of what went into it and has nowhere to hide.

GhanaFoodChef

Shito, the dark Ghanaian chilli sauce made with dried shrimp and smoked fish in oil

Shito Sauce

Shito is Ghana's dark chilli condiment, and it is one of the few West African sauces that keeps for months. Dried shrimp, ground smoked fish, chilli, onion, ginger and garlic are cooked down slowly in a large quantity of oil until the whole thing turns nearly black, and the oil that rises to the top is what preserves it. The name is simply the Ga word for pepper. It is made differently in every region and village, and it comes coarse or smooth, medium or extremely hot, depending on the household. What does not change is the smokiness, which comes from ground smoked fish and dried shrimp rather than from any smoking of the sauce itself. That combination has been compared to Malaysian sambal belacan, which works on the same principle of dried seafood cooked into chilli paste. It goes with almost everything: waakye, kenkey, plain rice, fried plantain, yam, beans. Ghanaians abroad travel with jars of it. Its keeping quality is the practical reason it exists in the quantities it does, since a batch made once will sit in the cupboard for two or three months with the oil layer intact, and in the fridge after that.

Ghana50 minJennifer

Edikang Ikong soup served in a clay pot with assorted meat and seafood, a traditional Nigerian vegetable soup from Cross River State

Edikang Ikong (Vegetable Soup)

Edikang ikong, also written edikaikong or ekaikong, is the vegetable soup of the Efik and Ibibio people of southeastern Nigeria, and it is built on a deliberately generous quantity of two leaves. Ugu, the fluted pumpkin leaf, provides the flavour and the deep green. Waterleaf provides the moisture and the body, wilting down to release enough liquid that the soup largely cooks in its own juices. The proportion matters: this is a soup where the vegetables are the substance rather than a garnish stirred through at the end, and a properly made pot is dense with leaf. Around them sits an assortment that has given the dish its reputation, goat meat, dried fish, stockfish, shrimp or crayfish, periwinkle, palm oil. That density of protein is why it was long known as rich man's food, a soup that announced a household could afford it. It is now eaten across the country and well beyond it. It is the close relative of afang soup, which comes from the same people and follows the same structure. The distinction is entirely in the leaf: afang uses okazi, which is tough and faintly bitter, while edikang ikong uses ugu, which is softer and sweeter. Anyone from the region can tell them apart at a glance. It is served with any of the swallows.

Nigeria1 hrFoodChef

Nkatenkwan

Nkatenkwan is Ghana's peanut soup, and it is one of the country's most recognised dishes. Chicken is simmered with whole onions, tomatoes, ginger and kpakpo shito peppers, the softened vegetables are blended back into the broth, and a separately prepared peanut sauce is stirred through and simmered until the peanut oil rises to the surface. Peanuts are not indigenous to Africa. They originated in South America and were brought to the continent by the Portuguese in the sixteenth century, arriving possibly through Senegambia or through the Angola and Congo regions, and they spread from there into cooking across West, East, Southern and Central Africa. Before they arrived, Bambara beans filled a similar role, and dishes built on Bambara beans still exist alongside their peanut equivalents. Why peanuts displaced them so thoroughly is not settled. In Ghana the soup is credited to the Hausa and eaten across the whole country. It is almost always served with omo tuo, the rice balls, and it works with any fufu. Whole okra pods go in at the end as a garnish. It sits within a wide West African family of peanut soups and stews that includes maafe, domoda and tigadèguèna, all of which are made rather differently.

Ghana50 minBlessing

Banga Soup

Banga soup is made from palm fruit, not palm oil, but the pulp extracted from boiled palm nuts, which gives a soup with a completely different weight and flavour from anything oil alone produces. It belongs to the Niger Delta, and particularly to the Urhobo, though it is cooked across southern Nigeria under several names. Ofe akwu is the Igbo version, and while the base is the same the treatment differs, ofe akwu is usually served with rice, while banga is a soup for swallow. Oghwo amiedi and izuwo ibiedi are Urhobo and Isoko names for it. The same palm fruit base appears well beyond Nigeria. In Ghana it becomes abenkwan, palm nut soup; in Cameroon, mbanga soup. It is one of the clearest examples of a single West African technique carrying across borders and taking a different name in each place. What makes banga specifically banga is the spice set. Beletientien, oburunbebe stick, aidan fruit and the Delta spice blends give it an aromatic, slightly resinous character that is quite unlike any other Nigerian soup. The oburunbebe stick in particular is stirred through the pot and left in it. Fresh fish is the classic protein, catfish above all, though assorted meat and dried fish are equally common.

Nigeria50 minFoodChef

Eddoe Soup

Eddoe soup is a Liberian soup built on eddoes, the small starchy corms cooked until soft and then crushed so they thicken the broth themselves. No flour or other thickener is used, and the texture comes entirely from the root breaking down. Eddoe, Colocasia esculenta, goes by a long list of names depending on where you are: taro, dasheen, cocoyam. It is a small hairy corm with a light, crumbly flesh and a flavour close to potato but nuttier, which is why it is sometimes called the potato of the tropics. It did not originate in Africa. It is generally traced to India, spreading east to Burma and China and south to Indonesia, then reaching Egypt and the eastern Mediterranean before moving into Africa, the Guinea coast and the Caribbean. That distribution is why closely related soups exist in Guyana and across the West Indies, and why the source article spends as much time on Guyanese preparation as on Liberian. The version here is simple: eddoes and meat cooked together, crushed, then finished with onion, thyme and eschalot and a spoonful of butter. Salt meat or fresh pork, beef or chicken all work, and the choice is a matter of what is available.

Liberia50 minBlessing

Tomato Stew

Tomato stew is the foundation of West African home cooking, the red base that sits in a pot in the fridge and turns into half a dozen different meals across a week. It is not really a single recipe so much as a technique with a very wide licence. Tomatoes, red bell peppers, onions and chilli are blended, then cooked down hard in oil until the water drives off, the colour deepens and the oil separates and rises to the top. That separation is the signal that it is done, and it is the step people most often cut short. What it becomes afterwards is open. Served over white rice it is stew. Rice cooked in it is jollof. It goes with yam, plantain, beans, spaghetti and every swallow. Meat, chicken or fish can be cooked in it, or it can be kept plain and used as a base. In many Nigerian households a large pot is made at the weekend precisely so the week's cooking becomes quick. The variations follow region and household. Some cook it with palm oil, some with vegetable oil; some add crayfish, some do not; the ratio of tomato to pepper shifts the colour from bright red to deep rust. It keeps for several days refrigerated and freezes well in portions, which is much of the point.

NigeriaNympha

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