Recettes

Ful Medames

Ful medames is stewed fava beans dressed with olive oil, cumin, garlic and lemon, and it is Egypt's national dish. It is eaten at any hour, though breakfast is when it belongs most, and it is sold from carts across Cairo and Giza in the mornings. Traditionally it is cooked and served in a large metal jug, the qedra, over a very long slow heat, often overnight, which is why street ful has a depth that a quick home version does not. What the beans are dressed with varies endlessly: parsley, onion, chilli, tomato, hard eggs, tahini. Its versions across the region are worth knowing. In Somalia, fuul is a breakfast staple served with eggs and laxoox or canjeero flatbread, spiced with xawaash, the blend of cumin, coriander, cardamom, cloves, turmeric and more that makes it noticeably hotter than the Egyptian version. In Morocco it is bissara, made from fava beans and split green peas cooked with garlic, eaten especially in the north during cold weather. This particular recipe includes tahini, which is a Levantine addition rather than a classic Egyptian one, and it uses tinned beans rather than the overnight cook.

25 minEasyEgypt

Recette de Nympha · Africook

Sardine Meatball Tagine

Tinned sardines puréed with egg and breadcrumbs, rolled into balls and cooked in a spiced tomato sauce. It is Moroccan, and the source is right that it is the forerunner of the sardine meatball sandwiches sold widely on the coast. Sardines matter enormously to Morocco. The country is the world's largest exporter of tinned sardines, the fishery is a major part of the coastal economy, and sardines are cheap and abundant enough to be genuinely everyday food rather than a delicacy. That economic fact is why a sardine kefta exists at all, ground sardine is now sold ready-prepared at Moroccan fish markets, which the source notes and which tells you how ordinary the dish is. The technique is standard kefta construction applied to fish. Puréeing rather than flaking is what makes the mixture hold together, since sardine flesh is soft and would fall apart otherwise, and the breadcrumbs and egg do the binding a meat kefta would not need. The spicing, paprika, turmeric, ginger, coriander and cumin, is the Moroccan tagine vocabulary rather than anything specific to fish. The source's discussion of sardine oil in paint and linoleum manufacture is accurate and not especially appetising; it has not been carried across. Nor have its omega-3 claims.

50 minEasyMorocco

Recette de FoodChef · Africook

Wheat Porridge (Belila)

Belila is Egyptian wheat porridge: whole wheat berries cooked until they burst, served warm in hot milk with toasted almonds and cinnamon. It is a breakfast dish, and it is equally at home as a snack or a filling dessert. Whole wheat berries are the point, and they are quite different from any milled grain. Left whole, they hold their shape and burst open rather than dissolving, giving a chewy, almost popping texture that no flour or flake reproduces. The fuller Egyptian version carries anise seed and golden raisins in a light syrup alongside the milk and almonds, which is worth knowing since neither appears in this recipe's ingredient list. The method is soaking rather than long cooking. The berries are covered with boiling water and left overnight, then cooked briefly and rested off the heat until they pop open. Cooked wheat berries should be kept in the fridge undrained, and portions warmed with hot milk poured over as needed, which makes it a practical thing to have prepared in advance. It is eaten by children and adults alike and is regarded as comfort food at any hour.

40 minEasyEgypt

Recette de FoodChef · Africook

Ta'ameya (Egyptian Falafel)

Ta'ameya is Egyptian falafel, and the difference from every other falafel is the bean. Egypt makes it from dried split fava beans; Lebanon, Israel and most of the Levant use chickpeas, or a mixture. The fava gives a paler, softer, greener interior and a distinctly different flavour, and Egyptians will tell you theirs came first. It is breakfast food above all. Ful wa ta'ameya, fava bean stew with falafel, is the standard Egyptian morning meal, and the phrase names the pair together. The ful is cooked overnight in a large round pot called a qedra, and the ta'ameya is fried fresh in the early hours, so the smell of hot oil on the way to school or work is a shared memory rather than an individual one. Herbs are the other distinction. Parsley, coriander and dill go into the paste in quantity, which is what gives the interior its green colour, and the whole mixture is traditionally pounded in a large stone mortar. Sesame seeds are pressed onto the outside before frying in many versions, giving a crust that chickpea falafel does not have. It is eaten with tahini and baladi bread, and it is one of the cheapest complete meals in the country.

★★★★★Les mieux notées

50 minMediumEgypt

Recette de FoodChef · Africook