
Mandazi
Mandazi is the fried bread of the Swahili coast, the strip of East African coastline running through Kenya, Tanzania and the offshore islands, where Bantu, Arab, Persian and Indian influences have been folding into one another for a thousand years. It is usually cut into triangles, though rounds and squares are common too, and it is fried until it puffs and turns gold. The dough is enriched with coconut milk and scented with cardamom, and those two ingredients place it geographically as precisely as a map would: coconut from the coast, cardamom from the Indian Ocean spice trade that made these ports what they were. It is often described as a Swahili doughnut, which is fair as a shorthand and misleading in one respect. Mandazi is considerably less sweet than an American doughnut, and it is not glazed or filled. That restraint is what makes it useful, it goes with tea in the morning, with a bean stew at lunch, or on its own from a street stall, and none of those would work with something sugary. It was once more of an occasion food, made at Christmas and for celebrations. It is now everyday, which the source attributes plainly to changing lifestyles and to more people knowing how to make it. It reheats well, which is part of why it is made in quantity.
KenyaBeatrice
