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Recettes Egypt
De Egyptian Meshabek à Kawaree (Cow Feet), de Egyptian Kofta à Swabaa Zainab. Toute la cuisine Egypt, telle qu'on la prépare chez soi.
Ghorayebah is the Egyptian butter cookie, made with ghee and almost nothing else, and its whole character is texture. It is barely sweet, pale to the point of being off-white, and it disintegrates the moment it is bitten.
Four ingredients make it: ghee, icing sugar, flour and a little vanilla, with baking powder for a very slight lift. The classic Egyptian version is flavoured with nothing beyond the ghee itself, which is the point of it. Elsewhere in the Arab world, in Syria and Lebanon particularly, it is flavoured with orange blossom and rose water, is slightly crunchier, and is pronounced graybeh. It also goes by ghraybeh and ghoraybeh.
The comparison usually made is shortbread without the crunch, and that is fair as far as it goes. What ghorayebah has that shortbread does not is a fine, almost powdery crumb and a smooth finish with a faintly fuzzy outer surface. Two things produce it: ghee rather than butter, which contains no water, and a very low oven that dries the cookie without colouring it. It must not brown. A clove pressed into the centre of each is the traditional finish.
Ful medames is stewed fava beans dressed with olive oil, cumin, garlic and lemon, and it is Egypt's national dish. It is eaten at any hour, though breakfast is when it belongs most, and it is sold from carts across Cairo and Giza in the mornings.
Traditionally it is cooked and served in a large metal jug, the qedra, over a very long slow heat, often overnight, which is why street ful has a depth that a quick home version does not. What the beans are dressed with varies endlessly: parsley, onion, chilli, tomato, hard eggs, tahini.
Its versions across the region are worth knowing. In Somalia, fuul is a breakfast staple served with eggs and laxoox or canjeero flatbread, spiced with xawaash, the blend of cumin, coriander, cardamom, cloves, turmeric and more that makes it noticeably hotter than the Egyptian version. In Morocco it is bissara, made from fava beans and split green peas cooked with garlic, eaten especially in the north during cold weather. This particular recipe includes tahini, which is a Levantine addition rather than a classic Egyptian one, and it uses tinned beans rather than the overnight cook.
Belila is Egyptian wheat porridge: whole wheat berries cooked until they burst, served warm in hot milk with toasted almonds and cinnamon. It is a breakfast dish, and it is equally at home as a snack or a filling dessert.
Whole wheat berries are the point, and they are quite different from any milled grain. Left whole, they hold their shape and burst open rather than dissolving, giving a chewy, almost popping texture that no flour or flake reproduces. The fuller Egyptian version carries anise seed and golden raisins in a light syrup alongside the milk and almonds, which is worth knowing since neither appears in this recipe's ingredient list.
The method is soaking rather than long cooking. The berries are covered with boiling water and left overnight, then cooked briefly and rested off the heat until they pop open. Cooked wheat berries should be kept in the fridge undrained, and portions warmed with hot milk poured over as needed, which makes it a practical thing to have prepared in advance. It is eaten by children and adults alike and is regarded as comfort food at any hour.
Om Ali is Egypt's most beloved dessert, a warm, sweet pudding made from torn pieces of puff pastry or bread baked in sweetened milk with nuts, coconut, and raisins until golden and bubbling. It sits somewhere between a bread pudding and a milk-soaked pastry and manages to be simultaneously comforting and festive. The dish is a fixture of Egyptian restaurants, home celebrations, and Ramadan gatherings, where it is often served in communal baking dishes at the end of a large meal. Despite its simplicity, Om Ali manages to taste luxurious, the puff pastry creates layered, crispy edges while the centre remains soft and creamy with the absorbed milk.