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Recettes
Parcourez les archives par pays, par plat et par temps de cuisson.
This is an East African salad of mango, cucumber and tomato with chilli, cumin and a little cinnamon, dressed with lime and finished with roasted peanuts. It is served on its own or alongside grilled meat, and its appeal is the contrast: crunchy against soft, sweet against tart.
Mangoes are not indigenous to Africa. They reached the East African coast through Persian traders around the tenth century, part of the same Indian Ocean exchange that brought rice, spices and coconut into Swahili cooking, and they have been grown and eaten there ever since. Kenya and Tanzania are now substantial producers.
The seasoning is what places it. Cumin with a dash of cinnamon in a fruit salad is a Swahili coast combination rather than a Western one, reflecting the same trade history, and the peanuts and lime give it the texture and acidity that hold the whole thing together. Salting the cucumber and onion first and letting them drain for twenty minutes is the technique that matters most: cucumber holds a great deal of water, and skipping it leaves a salad sitting in liquid within minutes of being dressed.
Native sauce is a palm oil sauce with smoked fish, crayfish and pumpkin leaves, made in southern Nigeria and served alongside roasted or plain starches. Native in this context means locally sourced and traditionally seasoned rather than anything about the technique, and it distinguishes the sauce from tomato-based stews.
What defines it is the absence of tomato. Palm oil, blended pepper, onion, crayfish and smoked fish carry the whole thing, and the result is darker, oilier and considerably more savoury than a stew built on tomato. The same principle produces native jollof rice and the family of dishes described as native across southeastern Nigeria.
Ugwu goes in at the end and needs only a few minutes to wilt while keeping its colour. The sauce is quick, around twenty-five minutes from start to finish, which is unusual for a Nigerian sauce with this depth of flavour, and it comes from the fact that the smoked fish and crayfish are already concentrated. It is served with roasted yam or plantain, or with any starch, and it functions as a sauce to be spooned over rather than as a soup to be eaten with a swallow.
Oyster mushrooms grilled and tossed in suya spice. It is a plant-based version of the Nigerian street food, and it works better than most meat substitutions do.
**The traditional suya spice contains ground peanuts, and this recipe includes them.** The source flags it and offers to leave them out, which is honest, but it is worth stating clearly, because a peanut allergy and a suya spice blend are a genuinely dangerous combination and the name gives no warning.
Suya proper is skewered beef, ram or chicken rubbed in yaji, the spice blend of ground roasted peanuts, ginger, cayenne, garlic, onion powder and paprika, and grilled over open coals. It is Hausa in origin, from northern Nigeria, and it is sold across Nigeria, Cameroon, Niger, Ghana and parts of Sudan. Kyinkyinga is the Ghanaian name, agashe the Sudanese.
Oyster mushrooms are the right substitution and not an arbitrary one. Shredded, they have a fibrous, layered structure that genuinely resembles pulled meat, they take on the dry rub readily, and they char well. Most vegetables do neither.
The source's method is very compressed, one step reads "put in a preheated medium", with the word oven missing, and has been filled out below.
Peanut butter soup, nkatenkwan in Twi, is one of Ghana's defining dishes, and versions of it are cooked right across West Africa under different names.
It is built by combining peanut butter, or blended roasted peanuts, with stock and a tomato base, then simmering until the oil separates and rises. That separation is the marker of a finished soup and it takes time; rushed, the soup tastes raw and pasty.
The dish belongs to a wider family. Nigerian groundnut soup and Senegalese mafé share the same foundation, and the differences are in what goes with it, meat, chicken or fish, and the vegetables that accompany.
It is served most classically with fufu, the pounded cassava and plantain swallow, and also with rice or omo tuo, the rice balls.
The soup is naturally rich and quite heavy, and it is usually made with chilli to balance that. Without heat it can be cloying.
Peanuts are one of the most serious food allergens, and there is no version of this dish without them.