Recettes

Ta'ameya (Egyptian Falafel)

Ta'ameya is Egyptian falafel, and the difference from every other falafel is the bean. Egypt makes it from dried split fava beans; Lebanon, Israel and most of the Levant use chickpeas, or a mixture. The fava gives a paler, softer, greener interior and a distinctly different flavour, and Egyptians will tell you theirs came first. It is breakfast food above all. Ful wa ta'ameya, fava bean stew with falafel, is the standard Egyptian morning meal, and the phrase names the pair together. The ful is cooked overnight in a large round pot called a qedra, and the ta'ameya is fried fresh in the early hours, so the smell of hot oil on the way to school or work is a shared memory rather than an individual one. Herbs are the other distinction. Parsley, coriander and dill go into the paste in quantity, which is what gives the interior its green colour, and the whole mixture is traditionally pounded in a large stone mortar. Sesame seeds are pressed onto the outside before frying in many versions, giving a crust that chickpea falafel does not have. It is eaten with tahini and baladi bread, and it is one of the cheapest complete meals in the country.

★★★★★Les mieux notées

50 minMediumEgypt

Recette de FoodChef · Africook

Asaro (Nigerian Yam Porridge)

Asaro is yam cooked down in a seasoned pepper base with palm oil until part of it collapses into a thick, orange-red mash while some pieces stay whole. It comes from the Yoruba of southwestern Nigeria and is now eaten across the country. The texture is the dish. Mashing all of it gives you something closer to a purée; leaving it all in pieces gives you yam in sauce. Asaro is deliberately between the two, enough breaks down to thicken everything, enough survives to give you something to bite. The palm oil is not incidental either: it supplies the colour and a distinct earthy richness that no other oil reproduces. There is a naming point the source raises and gets broadly right. What Nigerians call porridge is closer to what English calls pottage, a thick one-pot dish of a starch cooked with vegetables and sometimes meat, rather than the European breakfast sense of a grain cooked in liquid. The two words are used interchangeably in Nigeria. The source also identifies mpotompoto as the Ghanaian counterpart. The dishes are close relatives rather than the same thing, and that has been noted rather than asserted as fact.

1 hr 10 minEasyNigeria

Recette de FoodChef · Africook

Fried Cassava (Yuca)

Fried cassava is cassava root parboiled, then fried until the outside crisps and the inside stays dense and soft. It is eaten across a great many countries under different names, and the source names none, which is defensible here: versions of it are made in West and Central Africa, the Caribbean, Latin America and Southeast Asia. Cassava came from South America and reached Africa through Portuguese Atlantic trade from the sixteenth century, becoming one of the continent's principal staples. Yuca is the Latin American name for the same root, and it is not related to the yucca shrub despite the near-identical spelling. In West Africa it turns up fried as a street snack, and in the Caribbean and Latin America as yuca frita. The texture is what people come back for: crisp outside, dense and slightly buttery inside, quite unlike a potato chip. Two things matter in the making. The fibrous woody core running down the centre of each piece has to come out, since it never softens. And cassava must be peeled and thoroughly cooked before eating, parboiling before frying is not just for texture, and the source's own question about whether frying alone deals with the issue is worth answering properly rather than glossing over.

★★★★★Les mieux notées

55 minEasy

Recette de Debby · Africook

Akara

Akara is a fritter of peeled, ground beans, whipped until light and deep fried, and it is one of the most widely eaten breakfasts in West Africa. It is thought to have originated with the Yoruba of Nigeria and is now made across the region and beyond, under names including kosai in Hausa and akara in most of the rest. It crossed the Atlantic. Acarajé in Bahia, Brazil, is the same dish, carried there by enslaved West Africans, and it holds a sacred role in Candomblé as an offering as well as being sold as street food. That direction of travel is worth stating plainly, because the source has it backwards: the dish went from West Africa to Brazil, not the other way round. Two things make good akara. The beans must be peeled, which means soaking and rubbing the skins off, and the paste must be whipped hard enough to hold air, traditionally in a mortar with a pestle. That aeration is what makes akara light rather than dense, and it is why the mixture should be ground with as little water as possible, since a wet paste will not hold air. It is eaten with pap, agidi or bread, and Saturday morning is when Nigerian households most often make it.

★★★★★Les mieux notées

2 hr 20 minMediumNigeria

Recette de Beatrice · Africook