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Recettes Madagascar
Parcourez les archives par pays, par plat et par temps de cuisson.
Romazava is the national dish of Madagascar, and the name describes it exactly: ro means broth or soup in Malagasy, mazava means clear. It is meat simmered with leafy greens in a clear broth, served over rice, and it is one of the seven royal dishes known collectively as tatao.
It was once food for the Malagasy sovereign specifically. That association with royalty is part of why it holds the position it does, and it is now eaten by everyone rather than reserved for anyone. Three meats together, beef, pork and chicken, is characteristic of the fuller version, though households vary it.
The greens are what make it Malagasy and they are the hardest part to reproduce elsewhere. Anamamy, paracress and mustard greens are what is used on the island; paracress in particular produces a tingling, numbing sensation on the tongue that is central to the authentic dish and has no European equivalent. Spinach and rocket are the usual substitutes and give a good soup that is missing that specific quality. Zebu, the humped cattle of Madagascar, is the traditional beef. It is served with sakay, the Malagasy chilli condiment, and small eggplants, ginger and tomato are common additions.
Pork browned and cooked slowly with ravitoto, pounded cassava leaves, until the meat is tender and the greens have collapsed into a dense, dark mass. It is Malagasy, and it is close to a national dish.
The page needs an immediate correction. Its title, henakisoa sy amalona, means pork with eel, and that dish is real: one of the seven royal dishes of the Merina highlands, and genuinely divisive in Madagascar, since some communities do not eat pork and the pairing of pork with fish is unusual. **But the recipe attached to this page contains no eel.** It is pork with ravitoto, which is a different and far more common dish, and the source's own prose drifts into describing that one instead. The recipe here follows the ingredients, and the title has been changed to name what is actually made. The URL is unchanged.
Ravitoto is worth knowing about. Cassava leaves are pounded, traditionally in a wooden mortar, and the pounding is the defining step, giving the name, then cooked long and slow. Cassava leaves must be thoroughly cooked, as the raw leaf is toxic. Tinned or frozen ravitoto sold at African grocers has already been processed.
Ravitoto sy henakisoa is commonly described as Madagascar's national dish, though the Merina royal tradition holds otherwise.
Dried white beans cooked until tender, then finished with red onion and sliced tomatoes into a thick, soupy stew. It is Malagasy, and it is served everywhere on the island.
It is laoka, which is the useful word here. In Malagasy eating, rice is the meal and laoka is whatever accompanies it, the thing that goes on top of, or beside, a large plate of rice. Tsaramaso is one of the most popular laoka in the country, and it is eaten as a matter of course rather than as an occasion dish.
It is very often not vegetarian. Zebu meat, the humped cattle that are central to Malagasy life, makes it hen'omby sy tsaramaso, and pork makes it tsaramaso sy henakisoa. The shank is the cut the source recommends. This version is the plain one, which is also widely eaten.
The technique in the recipe is worth noting: the beans are cooked separately in water, seasoned only at the end, and a cup of their cooking liquid is kept back. That liquid is what the finished stew is loosened with, and it carries starch and flavour that plain water would not.
The source compares it to cassoulet, which is a reasonable shorthand, beans and meat cooked long and slow, though the seasoning is entirely different.